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Donnelly Canyon
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Fuel Injected Hardbody 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Petro and Kelly Moore - April 15, 1987
Page Views: 2,707
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Let the stemming begin...


This high quality stemming and liebacking problem is located in an attractive, varnished left-facing corner just left of the much more popular Generic Crack.

Stem the first 20 feet on tiny gear (00 TCU size) to a welcome 0.75 Camalot placement. Above this is a bolt which protects ten feet of crux climbing up to some solid fingers liebacking. Save a rattley fingers piece for the run to the anchor.


A very small cam or even a wire, lots of blue and yellow TCU sized pieces and a couple slightly larger pieces.

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By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Definitely small gear. Definitely not PG-13. It's safe and fun. Do it.
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Sucks up small cams. Very safe.
By JamesLucas
Apr 13, 2012

So hard...someone bolt the entire line please
By J. Hickok
Oct 8, 2012

Shameful to suggest - even jokingly!
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Mar 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I used the bolt... I'm so ashamed. OK, not really. I have smaller fingers but still thought this was harder than Unbelievable at Broken Tooth which has a similar boulder problem/liebacking style.
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