Fudge Judge  5.9+ X

256 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Katie Cavicchio New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Oct 8, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Awful, truly horrible. Will only fall apart with more traffic.

This is a route used to access the anchors atop Red Faction. It would get you up there to set up a toprope, but then again, it's probably better to just dog up Red Faction or stick-clip-aid it.

From the hump, descend about 10-15 feet in the gully. Step onto the right wall and make a leftward traverse (bad TCU) to a sloping, dirty ledge. Climb the dirty corner (crux) to a stemmy stance, and get in a good cam. Keep rockaneering up and left through stacked loose shit, treading as lightly as possible, to reach the double-bolt anchors atop Red Faction.

Protection 

Some small-mid TCUs, hand-sized cams.