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Working through the steep opening moves on Fruit L...
This is an outstanding route that any leader will enjoy, even if it's below your normal lead level. It's almost three climbs in one: crack climbing; chimney; and face climbing. Many people skip the second pitch, but it's lots of fun and very worthwhile.
P1 - Start at a somewhat steep crack, working your way up with jams and some face holds. The going quickly gets easier/less steep, continue past some flake moves to the base of a chimney with bolted belay anchors (80').
P2 - Climb the chimney (well-protected), continuing until it begins to narrow, then make balancy moves out onto the face to the left. Continue up the low-angled face to the top (80').
Starts just right of a big offwidth crack, about 50' right of Shredded Wheat. Rap from the slings/rap rings at the top.
Small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Bolted anchors at the belay, fixed slings/rap rings at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Sweetie, does this crack make my butt look- never ...
Unknown climber leading Fruit Loops
who needs shoes?
Following on pitch 1.
Chimney on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: A great view of the primary crack
Drew B just past the crux
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Fruit Loops
Eric stepping up to the crux of Fruit Loops
BETA PHOTO: This is the start of the second pitch of Fruit Loo...
|By Jeremy P Franz|
From: Greenville, SC
Jul 7, 2008
Great Route that keeps you on your toes. Must do if your in the area.
|By Ben Sachs|
Oct 27, 2008
The chimney is super awesome and I enjoyed it more than the 1st pitch. Worth doing even if you lead way harder. This route stays cool(ish) in the summer.
|By Austin Cooner|
Jul 20, 2009
The first pitch is classic. The second is exposed and a little scary for the grade. Worth doing for the exposure and view of Lake Lure, but not really for the climb itself.
|By Eric Embree|
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 7, 2009
First pitch 5.7+ Very protect-able. I found the crux to be at about the 20 foot mark. Lots of fun. Defiantly one of my favorites. It started to rain and we weren't able to do the second pitch.
|By Matt Westlake|
Dec 8, 2009
The first pitch was nice but I really enjoyed the second pitch, largely because it was quite different from most other routes in the area and I hadn't run into the need to use chimney technique anywhere else locally (is there another pitch like this in NC?) Unlike a lot of other chimney climbs there are actually some gear placements to make this more palatable - mostly small stuff.
However, I could see how this section could creep out someone not expecting to have to rely on those perhaps unfamiliar skills. I definitely felt the big drop below me and it was at times a bit strenuous to maintain position. I agree that it's a bit exposed and challenging for 5.7+ but think it's worthwhile endeavor.
Jan 18, 2010
Very fun flake climbing that is easier than it looks. The crux is low, right before you get to the first horizontal shelf jug. Bring plenty of gear in the 0.4-0.5" range for the bottom and a few smaller pieces for the top. The second pitch looks fun but I haven't tried it yet.
|By Sam Stephens|
Mar 5, 2011
I thought the second pitch was way more fun than the first pitch. It's definitely worth doing. I just ran the whole thing into one long pitch
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 30, 2011
Lots of fun. The first pitch crack is great, but the weirdness of the second pitch is where it's at! Moving out onto the face is a blast and once there, although the climbing is not spectacular, the view is hard to beat.
|By Lyle M|
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 11, 2012
Lead both pitches today and loved them! First pitch had several really fun moves. Some loose flakes about 40 ft up (?) were a little unnerving. Absolutely loved the chimney on the second pitch, especially towards the top where it squeezed a bit tighter. Well worth climbing.
From: Bloomington, IN
Mar 20, 2013
1st pitch was fun, but the second pitch was awesome. If you have the time, definitely stay for #2. Its a really chill belay from inside the chimney and protecting it is a piece of cake. Once in the chimneying position you can stop and place gear at the thin crack your facing whenever you pelase. Hardest part for me was the awkwardness of coming through the notch where it narrows, but i guess it could be avoided if you dont go all the way back into it. Also, incredible view from the top. If for any reason, worth the view.
Mar 23, 2013
Met some nice folk out there the other day and they were telling us how cool the chimney section was. They were right! That chimney was a lot of fun. Well worth getting on even if you can climb much harder!