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Frozen Assets Ice Climb 
Zephyr 

Frozen Assets Ice Climb 

WI5

   
Type:  Ice, 9 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: Jonathan & Brian Smoot, Jim Knight, Bruce Rogaar in 1983
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,937
Submitted By: bsmoot on Jan 3, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Frozen Assets Ice Climb - Bottom
(01-16-08)
Located in the Mt. Nebo Wilderness. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 - A short, thin easy pitch leads to the main flow
P2 - Climb a steep, wide 70-80 degree pitch to a lower angle section above.
P3 - Gully ice and snow lead to a belay below a short vertical pillar.
P4 - Ascend the pillar and gully ice for a pitch.
P5-8 Climb 3-4 pitches of moderate snow, ice and rock to a ledge below a vertical smear of ice. There is one hard section, about pitch 6...a thinly iced corner/chimney.
P9 - Climb this short, thin, vertical section (crux) to the top.

Unfortunately this enjoyable climb only forms up in periods of wet weather. If the last pitch isn't in, the climb is a WI4. Photos coming soon.


Location 

This stepped ice flow descends from the North Facing buttress, about 1/2 mile up from the mouth of the canyon. Descend by rapping the route from trees, screws or V threads.

Edit: The first 5 pitches now have bolted rappels.


Protection 

Screws, ice ax or snow stake



Photos of Frozen Assets Ice Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Map showing the belays and upper section of the climb. Photo taken 2-21-09
BETA PHOTO: Map showing the belays and upper section of the cl...
Telephoto view from I-15 of <a href='/v/north-creek-canyon/106086606'>North Creek Canyon</a>.  <br />(Taken 01/15/08)
BETA PHOTO: Telephoto view from I-15 of North Creek Canyon.
(Taken...
<a href='/v/frozen-assets-ice-climb/106086610'>Frozen Assets Ice Climb</a> - Upper <br />(01-16-08)
BETA PHOTO: Frozen Assets Ice Climb - Upper
(01-16-08)
<a href='/v/frozen-assets-ice-climb/106086610'>Frozen Assets Ice Climb</a> <br />(01-16-08)
BETA PHOTO: Frozen Assets Ice Climb
(01-16-08)
Jim Knight low down on the climb...note the curved tools and head protection!
Jim Knight low down on the climb...note the curved...
The start of the 1,000' Frozen Assets. The first 3 to 4 pitches are visable...what a fun climb!
The start of the 1,000' Frozen Assets. The first 3...
Me on the 3rd pitch.
Me on the 3rd pitch.
<a href='/v/frozen-assets-ice-climb/106086610'>Frozen Assets Ice Climb</a> - Middle <br />(01-16-08)
BETA PHOTO: Frozen Assets Ice Climb - Middle
(01-16-08)
The last pitch
BETA PHOTO: The last pitch
Comments on Frozen Assets Ice Climb Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2010
By James Garrett
Jan 8, 2008

Thanks for this entry, Brian. I think I got about the 4th ascent of this climb back in the 80's and loved it at the time. Descent down the route was problematic, however, as I remember it. IMO, this would also be a great candidate for "some" bolted belay stations. Has someone climbed it this year? Any thoughts?

By bsmoot
Jan 10, 2008

James:

We rapped off of small trees, screws and ice bollards... very old school! You're welcome to add rap stations.

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 15, 2008

Thanks for the entry is right. We got on this on 2/11/08 and it's super fun. Thinner than the picture that Brian posted but great climbing. I'd love to see it in that condition.
As far as anchors go I feel that with most routes sporting big shiny bolted stations that this one could be left as is. IMO it made for a much more interesting day of climbing not just gunning from anchor to anchor. The vague description of pitches, screw anchors and a little simul-climbing all combine for a full value outing. We rapped from slung trees and older anchors with 2 60's no problem.

We re-rigged the anchor at the top of P1. There was a nut, a pin and a screw equalized. The screw had all but melted out and there wasn't enough ice near by to replace it so we equalized the nut and pin with new webbing.

By James Garrett
Feb 17, 2009

I climbed FA for the 2nd time this past weekend. The existing anchors were more dismal than I remembered from the mid 80s and I suspect some of the previous "tree" anchors were even swept away by avalanches. Some fixed pitons were dangerously loose and rusted through. They tapped out easily. The one pre-existing original 1/4" bolt above Pitch #4 or #5 was left in place and backed up by a 3/8" modern bolt. The piton at that stance was just swinging free unattached to the rock.
Frozen Assets is a very pleasant and long Wasatch alpine/ice classic, and now equipped belay/rappel stations help make the descent a safe and without anxiety affair.

Perhaps the biggest disadvantage of this will be for those accustomed to hiking up in the Spring/Summer and bootying all the webbing/ice screws/ice pitons left behind by those rapping from the previous winter's ascents.

It is my hope that most will welcome this change to this fine Smoot classic. All stations were placed on the east (left) side of the climb and the descent will still require 2 x 60m ropes. Two 70m ropes are recommended.

By notmyname
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 17, 2009

Thanks again for a fun day out James.
I enjoyed this more than Stairway. Although Stairway is a touch more difficult, it loses much from the crowds and highway. I don't get why more people aren't on this thing. There was a nice path (albiet covered in snow) and very little elevation gain on the approach. When it's in banner, there would be a TON of potential for other long lines and mixed routes galore.
I give the climb a Pabst Blue Ribbon, and a Seagrams Five Star.

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 21, 2009

People aren't on this thing for the same reasons it is good. It's long, the route/pitch description is vague and some of the anchors were traditional. You probably needed to have a slightly bigger skillset than simply swing and clip. We're paving the road though and I know that I'm helping. By posting, TRs and drilling anchors now it's a "safe and without anxiety affair".

Let me say this it's early and I haven't done anything fun so I'm a bit fired up but it seems like James came at this with drill charged.
After Brian posted this last year and with 20 years of cobwebs you're first thought was anchors.
Although Brian gave the OK to drill the only comment regarding new anchors was from me and it was no.
To support the action you say you've made it "safe and without anxiety" describing anchors in heinous condition and tried to make it sound like a trash pile forms at the bottom of a route that seldom gets climbed. Others have climbed the route, after us last year and this season, and there was no crying out for new stations for safety reasons. I don't feel like I used any anchor that was unsafe.

With all due respect to someone who has contributed much to this area I just don't think this needed to be done.




By notmyname
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 21, 2009

I've climbed many routes and FAs with no bolts and have had plenty of sketchy raps. I've had my entire anchor fall out when the rock on the right side of my anchor just fall off. I've rapped off my nut tool keeper cord slung around a pebble wedged in a crack. I'll complain about someone adding protection bolts unless it's to replace old ones, but will never ever complain about the addition of anchor bolts.

By James Garrett
Feb 22, 2009

cd,
No problem here and I thank you for your comments. It is not obligatory for you or anyone else to use the bomber stations....it is as obvious for me to have installed them as it is how much I dread attending another funeral(oh, and of climbers who incidentally had quite impressive skill sets). Lots of ways to get the chop, but for me, so unnecessary to do so by rappelling. I admit it is a fear of mine.

Justification is unneeded and unnecessary; however, if your name was indeed listed after the 1983 ascent, it might be another issue...which probably would have dissuaded me (and a few other people) from ever climbing Frozen Assets again. 25 years ago I could relate to you completely, nowadays I don't. No need on my part to question rappel/descent anchors.

By bsmoot
Feb 22, 2009

Just got off the climb today, Had a great time! ...lots of ice. I've posted a photo showing the upper route.

Understand where cdec is coming from, as I share many of his ideas...I'm glad you posted up, but if someone is asking to make a route safer, I can't really say no. Other members of the FA party were in favor of the new anchors. Since this route attracts climbers of more moderate ability, It seemed that ultimately, adding fixed anchors was the best decision.

Except for possibly the last set of bolts, which were placed in the vicinity of a pine tree, all of the anchor placements were well done. An old pin & bolt were left for historical purposes, which was appreciated. Thanks for the hard work, James. For those who want more of a full value experience, you can explore the upper part of the climb, conditions permitting. I don't know of anyone has climbed the last 4 pitches...and they were sporty!

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 22, 2009

Brian thanks for the photo and the comments. James and Michael thanks for the work. I'm sticking to what I said but do agree that the anchors are indeed safer and will help to open this route to a wider group. I'm no hardman and next go around I will indeed use them.

Enough about this, let's open up some of those other lines!!!


By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 24, 2010

As of 2/24/10 the belay at the top of pitch 1 is only 1 smashed up bolt and hanger. Rockfall removed one bolt and wrecked the remaining one. The one that remains can be used but is sketchy. No way to back it up except a knifeblade or new bolt.

By Jim Knight
Aug 2, 2010

Hi all,

Nobody asked me what I think about the need for anchors. And I was the first to climb the first two pitches on route weeks before I introduced the bothers Smoot to the area. Plus, I made a recon trip prior to that. I have never had a problem with a descent on this climb. All this talk about safety is a pantload. It's about convenience isn't it? C'mon, let's show some skills and spine, and keep it as it is.

I'll make it a point to climb it this winter just to see how problematic and unsafe it is. Perhaps then I'll decide if the new bolts stay or go. (With reimbursement of course.) It's a great climb, (like Stairway used to be- before it got bolted to submission) and could remain that way IF we let it. I'm willing to keep it untamed. Are you?