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Blueberry Lizards 
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Frosted Snakes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Geir, Marcy & Doso
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 517
Submitted By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009
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Another frosted snake

Description 

This east-facing climb is directly opposite Centipede Corner. Climb the left leaning dihedral to a point where a bolt appears on your right. Traverse to the bolt and clip it, then continue around the corner to a steep ramp. Place more gear and work through the spicy moves to the top.

Single rope rappel via the anchors for Hold the Jam.


Location 

See overview map


Protection 

Doubles to #2 Camalot



Photos of Frosted Snakes Slideshow Add Photo
A frosted snake
A frosted snake
Geir on the FA of Frosted Snakes
Geir on the FA of Frosted Snakes
The cruxy part -- a medium stopper was nice, my fingers didn't fit...photo by Erin
The cruxy part -- a medium stopper was nice, my fi...
Comments on Frosted Snakes Add Comment
Show which comments
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

The "spicy moves" to the top are hard to protect -- a la "Advanced Geir" -- but not as hard as the corner crack crux, and if doing again I'd probably skip and just go, risking the runout.

By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The upper face can be protected well with a green alien or the like. Aside from the looseness on the top, this is a really fun climb.

edit: did this again on lead - feels solid compared to the other nines in the area

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I really loved this route too- I didn't lead it, and am suspecting when I do, that it may get a 5.9+ rating. The first dihedral section is AWESOME! Then a well placed bolt gives you the courage to continue out and around a bit to some tricky pro or just run it out... I will try and pro it because I'm a "sew it up" type of gal. Really looking forward to getting back to this one.

By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2010

Though not as good as Centipede Corner, well worth doing.

Definitely on the hard side of 5.9, with some tricky gear.

The finish after the bolt is actually quite good.