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Frosted Flake 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brad Shaver, Grover Cable - 1976
Page Views: 8,043
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 18, 2006
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Description 

This beautiful flake formation will test your willpower, your stamina and your ability to jam your feet into cracks and still get them back out. For the grade, Frosted Flake is a strenuous lead.

Starting up a corner on easy ground, move up to a roof and traverse left until you get to the end of the roof where it turns into a left-facing corner/flake. Power up the corner (crux) on laybacks and the occasional jam, and on to the top.


Location 

Starts about 40' right of Fruit Loops. Rap off the anchors.


Protection 

Doubles in the medium to large cams (3-3.5"), otherwise small to medium gear. Bolted anchors.



Photos of Frosted Flake Slideshow Add Photo
The start of the crux on Frosted Flake.
The start of the crux on Frosted Flake.
The upper flake of Frosted Flake.
The upper flake of Frosted Flake.
Jammin' on Frosted Flakes
Jammin' on Frosted Flakes
Aesthetic flake crack that trends left, best climbed with both feet and both hands in, cruxy just after ~90 feature.
BETA PHOTO: Aesthetic flake crack that trends left, best climb...
Leading Frosted Flake at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina
Leading Frosted Flake at Rumbling Bald, North Caro...
Rhett placing he last piece of gear before he embarks on the run out lieback section of Frosted Flake.
Rhett placing he last piece of gear before he emba...
Straight on shot of Frosted Flake.
BETA PHOTO: Straight on shot of Frosted Flake.
Comments on Frosted Flake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2013
By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Apr 15, 2007

I thought this felt more like a 5.9-, but I have done a lot of crack climbing. I have medium size hands for a girl and was getting big cups and awesome feet. The upper wide section can be laid back as there are feet on the wall to make it easier...

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

Agreed. Cracks are generally a rare occurrence here in NC, so most of them inevitably get rated harder than they actually are. Most people lieback that thing... That probably is a 9+, or harder.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Apr 29, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

First time I led it, in fall '05, I liebacked the whole thing and nearly wet myself running it out--it's hard to stop and place gear that way! After going to Yosemite last summer (and the T Wall a bunch), I came back and jammed the hell out of it! Really awesome locker hands and cups with great body smears and some stems. This way is probably 5.9-. Liebacking the whole thing is hard.

By EliShank
Oct 2, 2008

I took some big falls one day trying to get a #3 close to the top of the lie back. It's not worth it, just keep haulin. Great route

By Austin Cooner
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

awesome route... definitely pump through the crux section after pulling the roof and just GO till you get to better holds to make your next gear placement! It's really not that hard!

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Great fun... only complaint is that the perfect hands don't go on forever!

And they are really PERFECT HANDS! I can't believe anyone would lieback that thing... crazyness.

By D Chermak
From: CO
Jul 4, 2011

RIP Josh Haddock. He died rappelling off this route on July 2, 2011. You will be deeply missed.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011

After doing it a few times, I really think Frosted Flake is the best route on the wall, even better than Shredded Wheat. As for Jamming Vs. Lie Backing. Having done it both ways, I felt like it was more strenuous to jam. You can place gear till your heart is content and would probably never fall out of the locker jams, but doing the runout lie back is much less strenuous.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

@JohnWesely
I also like this route as well or better than Shredded Wheat. Neither have the length of quality climbing to be mega-classic, but this has a little more at the grade. As far as Jamming, I agree with Stefanie and Nick that this isn't particularly stout compared to western cracks of the same grade. I tend to jam from a lieback possition on this, but if you feel really secure in the jams you can actually straight-in jam it and catch a good hip scum that takes much of the pump away, as you aren't being physical with it, and are taking weight off.

By Kevin DB
Jan 22, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

What a rad and incredibly aesthetic line. Even without the beautiful splitter it has rad climbing on it. I'm not so sure on difficulty, I've climbed a lot in Indian Creek and I think 5.9+ is a fair grade on this. Probably harder if you did the insanity of lying it back.

By nickehman
From: Bloomington, IN
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

What a fun route! Jammed it straight in with small cups and the hip scum and had no problems. 5.9 felt right. Although it was only 20 ft. of business, the business was worth it

By Spencer.herr
From: Asheville NC
Oct 15, 2013

my climbing partner took a 20 footer! he was hurt so we packed up and limped out. I left a bd #3 just below the crux if anyone is headed out there over the next few days and can grab it I would appreciate it! I can't get back out there for a while. if you end up with it just message me. thanks