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Frontal Lobotomy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Frontal Lobotomy climbs up the blank area about 10...

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Description 

Just right of African Flake is this route. It is the leftmost of three short routes that share one of two anchors 40 feet up. Thin face moves characterize this route.

Protection 

2 bolts, bolt(s) anchor(s)


Photos of Frontal Lobotomy Slideshow Add Photo
Preparing to match foot and hand on Frontal Lobotomy. Some fun edging and friction. <br />Shot by Kevin Aris
Preparing to match foot and hand on Frontal Loboto...

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By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 26, 2007

A fun, short route. Is it just me, or has this route gotten easier over the last 2 years (most routes are getting harder for me, save this one, as I have put on some weight...).
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

You're right, Josh, I had the same experience. One day I was leading and found a nice little foot hold at the crux I had never seen before (on several earlier ascents). I always thought this route felt .10a until that moment. Now it feels 5.9.
By Jon Leicht
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Liked this short climb a lot. It was a one move wonder, a 5.6 slab with a 10a boulder problem in the middle. although once you find the little nub at the crux to cancel the highstep, it does feel a lot easier.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Nov 2, 2013

According to a friendly local, someone has chipped holds on this route, or around this route. It used to be harder but now feels like .10a the whole way, according to him.
By Chris Douglas
From: Whittier, Ca
Nov 4, 2013

On my first try, getting past the first bolt was the hardest part. But after i figured it out, it wasn't so bad and the next move to the hole was pretty easy. Super fun route!!