In true Juliette fashion I decided to squeeze another route in on The Brain. I'm sure many folks have played around all over this boulder but we'll make it official here.
This is basically a long right to left traverse of the entire Brain boulder. It starts on the far right side of The Brain near the tree that is curving down towards the ground. There is a small reddish incut that works as the first foot hold. From there you move up slightly and through the easy jumbled area of Kids Rock and past the tree stump growing from the rock. Your hands should be in the small ledge/pockets above the stump. At this point there is a slightly awkward move down to the large shelf at the stump level. Your hands are heading towards the shelf and feet have to find some blind edges underneath the shelf. From here it's a simple traverse across the shelf (with feet underneath) to where the shelf terminates.
The next section is the crux. From the terminus of the shelf you use the eyelids and pockets to transition down through the start of Pinky and the Brain. There is a thin right leaning flake way down low. From there hands and feet have to be in position and it's a bit of a dynamic move to the split in the rock that marks where Half a Brain goes up. From here you just reverse the moves of Half a Brain back to the far left side of the boulder.
I don't think any of the individual moves are harder than V3 but it is long and tough on the hands/forearms (at least for me) The crux comes towards the end so that makes it more interesting. Once you hit the Pinky and the Brain area your feet are barely off the ground so make sure you don't touch down.
On the obvious Brain boulder. Look for the reddish foothold down low on the far right for the start.
Single pad is fine.
Jan 22, 2013
Worked on this a few times on one day. I've done all the sections/moves but have yet to complete it end to end without coming off at or right after the crux.