This is a tiny local area in southwest Virginia near Marion/Abingdon. There are a couple of cliffs and a few boulders. The locals used this area as a "dump" so most landings have trash and broken glass (but it works). Also the blocks and cliffs have graffiti but are still climbable. The rock quality is good but loose rock and choss are still found or considered "off".
For the cliffs, the crag was blasted away in the early 1900s, so large chunks have fallen but most of the face is good to go.
The boulders are mostly lowball, sharp, but fun one-move-wonders.
While basically a "locals only" area, if you are nearby this is a good place to check out.
Ask, as the parking is small and access sensitive.
This line climbs the beautiful arete right of Exodus. Begin on a rock stack that will give you feet through the cave area that has been mined out. Climb easier technical moves to the first stance. Break left on the the face into the first crux through the thin crack. Hit the jug, shake out, and continue on through slightly bigger holds to a no hands rest before the final crux. Sack-up and move around the arete for the stopper crux. Finish through big moves and big holds to the chains...[more]Browse More Classics in VA