The crux of this route is a spooky step from the pinnacle. This is what also makes this route so good. Exhilarating exposure on the 2nd pitch will have you laughing the whole way.
Starts on a large ramp and follows it to a pinnacle where you belay for the infamous Pinnacle pitch. Great route!! A must do.
Long slings. Small rack of cams and nuts
From: Toronto, Ontario
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
(From the Guide Book, V5, Adcock and Brown)
79. The Front of the Pinnacle 5.4 ∗∗
Start: at the outside corner of the ramp leading up to the pinnacle from the south.
1. 40m Climb the arête to a large ledge with a bolt (replaced 2008).
2. Climb the arête to a ledge below a smooth slab. Move left and climb the face to rejoin the arête. Follow the arête to the pinnacle. Belay to avoid rope drag.
3. Step across onto the main face (clip a pin, place gear) and climb to the top. There’s a two bolt belay station about 5m past the step across.
3(a). Alternatively, move right from the notch between the pinnacle and the main wall, and climb the slab to the top. This is more difficult but less scary.
History: FA: David Fisher, Marnie Gilmour, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Kay McCormick, September 2, 1956.