|Park your car off of the main canyon road.|
A route that spans the ages... From old school to new(er) school, this route tackles it all. A crack, a roof, a slab, and a little bit of terror! As you climb this line you'll be unloading your passive pro and reloading your short, snappy draws (biner gates opposed, of course). Multiple cruxes await the timid choss guzzler on this thrilling, mixed climb; expect a long and wild ride. Power, finesse, gear, and quick clips; a modern time machine on rock! Its like Back to the Future, in reverse.
Trilobites: Begin up a steep, pocketed face until you reach the right-side, thin, crack. Protect this sections using micro nuts and cams up to 3 inches. Fairly solid climbing, with adequate protection, this won't be the troubling part for old timers or dinosaurs. Exit the crack and work across the space towards the first bolt.
Lycra Tights: After the crack runs out, get sporty and bold! Climb to a bulge and bolt (1st crux), work up towards the right side of a roof/crack/cave feature (optional gear exists) and locate a hidden, reachy bolt. Next pull the powerful, sequential roof (2nd crux) and end the remainder of the route up a steep and blank face. Spacious and technical, the remaining shield (3rd crux) will leave you thankful for those skin tight, pantaloons. Finish at a two bolt, shared anchor and change back into modern attire.
This is the first route you encounter on the right side of the shooting gallery, its two lines right of Radiation Babies. It will be the only route with an extremely high first bolt.
Long for the area a 60m rope will just work. Bring small to medium gear and stoppers, long slings and draws; hexes need not apply.
|Comments on From Trilobites to Lycra Tights
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 23, 2013
It's easy to get sucked to the left after you clip the first bolt and find yourself staring at the intimidating and seemingly blank bulge. If you go that way, expect some frustration and fear when the line of pockets you were following ends and you find yourself 15' to the left of the line having to traverse back on no holds.
Save yourself the heightened blood pressure and plow straight up the bulge on hidden pockets. If it looks desperate, it's because it is...