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From Chocolate to Morphine 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Fred Berman & Bruce Lella - July, 1991
Page Views: 4,559
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006

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"From Chocolate to Morphine". Photo by B...

Description 

From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.

Protection 

15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.


Photos of From Chocolate to Morphine Slideshow Add Photo
Hjordis stems a little further up the crack
Hjordis stems a little further up the crack
Starting up the roofs
Starting up the roofs
The start of From Chocolate to Morphine
The start of From Chocolate to Morphine
Looking up at the short roof on From Chocolate to ...
Looking up at the short roof on From Chocolate to ...
More stemming higher up
More stemming higher up
Nice stemming in the corner
Nice stemming in the corner
Over the first roof, and on to the next one
Over the first roof, and on to the next one
approaching  the roof
approaching the roof
Hjordis dances  up the crack
Hjordis dances up the crack
Starting the first roof
Starting the first roof
More face climbing moves
More face climbing moves
surmounting that first roof
surmounting that first roof
Gets steeper up higher
Gets steeper up higher
Bernd starting up the initial crack
Bernd starting up the initial crack
And a wide stem to surmount the roof
And a wide stem to surmount the roof
Hjordis starts up the initial crack
Hjordis starts up the initial crack
Getting ready for the first roof.
Getting ready for the first roof.

Comments on From Chocolate to Morphine Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 2, 2015
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Jan 12, 2007

The quintessential owens jug haul.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 12, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A good candidate for that first Gorge 11d, IMO. I don't remember any stopper moves at all. Another excellent first 11d is "Sex" on Holy Trinity.
By Choncho
Jul 20, 2010

A 60 will work, but be super heads-up. Knot the end.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 30, 2011

Blew my onsight after following the chalk stains too high after the roof before pulling around the arete to the left. Awesome juggy/endurance sport route.
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Mar 19, 2011

A little pumpy, but good rests can be found. There are probably 4 holds that aren't jugs on the entire route, but they come right at the end. Easy to be lead astray by dummy holds up top. Stay to the left of the roofs.
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Nov 1, 2012

Seems that in the last year someone has replaced the old style hangers on this route, and added a new fixed chain draw above the first roof with a fancy fixe beaner on it. Anyone know who is to thank for this upgrade?

I have to admit I am saddened the old school hangers were stripped off the route that gave it some more of that rich east side character. The addition of the fixed chain makes cleaning to route much easier, nice addition.

This is one of the top 5 best routes in the gorge. A must do.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Best 11d in the Gorge.

With continuously fun movement, aesthetic position, and long character, this climb typifies all that is fun and scenic about the Owens River Gorge. Do it!
By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 1, 2013

There's some choss, but it's still a classic.
By Patrick R. M.
From: Henderson, Nevada
Sep 3, 2014

As of 8/30, the bolt before the roof (right before the chained permadraw) is sticking pretty far out, making for a pretty ugly spinner. Luckily the clips before and after are pretty close, but I wouldn't wanna whip on it.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A fine route- very fun in general, and very doable for a flash/onsight attempt, imho.

Couple of notes in general:

1) Anchor condition- if you put your own draws on this thing, make sure you do not clip them into the hangers- there are several stud bolts sticking out near the chains that will rub on your draws. I ended up using the mussys against my preference, since it was the only safe way to run a TR through the existing anchor setup. This seems to be a common theme at Owens- many anchors I come to are nice and shiny, but there are alot of studs sticking out, mangled fixe clips, etc. While I appreciate the ASCA volunteers work, as someone who spends alot of time replacing and chopping old bolts, the back-end work in this area could use some improvement.

2) Extend the draw on the bolt before the chain draw, please. If you don't, counter-clockwise action could cause that bolt to loosen again. Truthfully, that bolt is barely needed as it is.

3) IMHO, this route is easier (and an easier onsight) than it's neighbor, LaLaLand. 5.11c at most for this one, I think.
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