This route starts to the right of "Shoot up or Shut up". Follow the flake up to the crack. At the top of the crack (look for a bolt) move left and climb up to the chains
Cams and 1 draw for a bolt at the top
Nearing the upper bolt and left traverse, the crux...
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I followed this pitch and thought it was really hard for the grade. Lots of laybacking and strenuous right off the deck. Good rest after first crux then what I felt was the layback crux if you have normal size fingers. Great pitch - continuous........ 5.10+ or harder (at least on that day.)
|By Greg D|
Jan 30, 2009
Excellent route. Strenuos right of the deck. You can protect this section but it will be even more strenuous as you would be placing from an awkward sort of lieback.
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
I agree with Greg. The start is hard but close to the ground. It is much easier to just boulder through that section, then get some good pro in and continue up.
I wish that I had seen this page before I climbed it. I didn't know that you are supposed to traverse left at the top. I went straight up and had the soft rock with all the rope grooves break in my hand and hit me in the head, sending me falling back into a pretty nice whipper.
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
May 4, 2011
Same grade as "Eat The Rich" 10c, seems alot easier in my opinion. One of the better 5.10's at Wall Street though
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Bouldery start, protected by a low bolt, to a massive ledge. Then awesome varied crack climbing to an upper sporty crux protected by a bolt. An awesome line and not that hard because of the amazing stances for placing pro, the great rests, and the bomber locks and jams. If you can lead at the grade give it a burn and you'll be pleasantly rewarded, go for the onsight. 4 stars for the area of course. Warmed up on flakes of wraith.
Mar 10, 2014
Hey guys I lost a .5 (Purple) Camalot x4 on this climb today. I don't know the etiquette on booty and all but if somebody can get it out and let me know I'd be really grateful and pay for return shipping if someone could send it my way. I would be very very grateful!