Frog's Head 5.6
| 9,073 page views Good page? (2 likes)  |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Fritz Wiessner, Lorens Logan, 1941 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 24, 2006 |
| |
Chris Duca on the first pitch of Frog's Head. Pho...
Add Photo Printer View
Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Another Gunks moderate classic! Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block. Be aware that the start overlaps with Maria - it's fairly easy to share this bit of rock between parties. P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'. P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a large, overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the GT ledge and move 30' right to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.5, 80'. P2 variation: Move left out of the overhanging corner about halfway up and continue up the face to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'. Descend via two rappels from bolted anchors.
Protection Standard Rack.
Katie on the first pitch of Frog's Head
| BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Frog's Head as seen from the b...
| Katie starting the second pitch of Frog's Head
| Unknown climbers on pitch 2
| BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head. P1.
| BETA PHOTO: Frog's Head from a distance. Awesome climb.
| Starting off the 2nd pitch
| Paul Deagle - Frogs Head 5.6
| Paul Deagle & Mike Yunke - Frogs Head final pitch
| Paul Deagle - Frogs Head 5.6 looking down first pi...
| Meandering up pitch one of Frog's Head. Climber: ...
| |
By "H" From: Garden of Gods Apr 7, 2006
| Has anyone ever seen the frog's head? I have done it twice in the past and never saw it. I think there is reference to it in the Gunks Select guidebook put out by Dick Williams. |
By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Sep 12, 2006
| This is a good climb to link P1/P2 together for a long ~170ft lead. |
By L. Hamilton Jan 13, 2007
| The direct finish, climbing straight over the final roof instead of scrambling off left on the ledge, makes a more exciting finish to the climb. Cross the roof near an old ring piton, which fortunately can be backed up. With 60-meter rope, rap from tree back to P1 anchors. 5.6+ |
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Sep 2, 2007 rating: 5.6
| This is a great, well protected climb and is really fun, but very popular as well. A lot of the route is really polished, but the holds are big enough not to make much of a difference. |
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Sep 21, 2007 rating: 5.6
| In reference to the first post--"Has anyone ever seen the frog's head?" Yes, or I'm almost positive I know where it is. Located about 20-25 feet off the second pitch belay on the arete that makes up the right facing corner you climb to the right of. Look closely, and the profile of this elusive amphibian appears about midway up the arete. |
By Spiro Mar 22, 2008 rating: 5.6 PG13
| great climb, good variety of moves. |
By Heather Selitrennikoff From: East Coast Jun 1, 2009
| Just did the first pitch of Frog's Head, traversed left at bolts to the other set of bolts, and did second pitch of City Lights. Made for a fantastic climb. |
By Barrett Stetson May 1, 2011
| P1: Pretty fun, a few short crack moves. P2: Only thing I didn't like was having to trust a pin right off of the belay, didn't see a way to back it up. But there were jugs pretty much all the way up, some good steep-ish sections, plenty of pro, very fun pitch. I went all the way to the top and my second couldn't hear me yelling from there, if you have walkies use them. Also, if you go all the way to the top, you miss an easy rappel station on the ledge before the very top off to the right. |
By Anthony Nguyen From: Philadelphia Apr 23, 2012
| Got on this past Saturday and got some nice beta from locals. You can finish the second pitch by pulling the roof (very chill). After that there's 10' of easy slab and a tree anchor with webbing and rap rings. Very awesome way to finish a great climb. |
By kenr Jun 4, 2012
| P2: My first pro was a #2 Camalot just below that fixed pin. Somehow I didn't perceive a "thin crack" after the first 20 ft of P2. I did see a shallow right-facing corner which sort of led up to the big overhanging right-facing corner -- and climbing up somewhere near that shallow corner seemed to work. Polished? Overall it did not strike me that the rock was notably polished from grit on climbers' shoes (as often does happen to footholds in softer rock like limestone, which can get seriously slippery after they've gotten lots of dirty-shoes climber traffic). Maybe some of the rock on Frog's Head has a higher quartz content and lower percent of embedded pebbles + granules than most Gunks routes (perhaps this is why the base section of Frog's Head has a lighter color) so some footholds might have less friction than others in the Gunks. But although I remember a shortage of obvious footholds around the P1 crux, when I did find the non-obvious smaller ones and then tried standing on them, their friction supported my foot just fine - no slipping off. |
|