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 ADVANCED
The Nappy Dugout
Routes Sorted
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Drunken Monkey 
Family Unit 
Fossil Family 
Fringe Dweller 
Frizzle Frye 
Ivory Tower 
Kingfisher 
Lung Fish 
Mr. Cranky Pants 
Perfect Gun, The 
PMS 
PMT 
Z Man 

Frizzle Frye 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 1, 2001
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Description 

I also seen this route referred to as 12d but it was rated 13a when it was put up, and I don't want to be further accused of sandbagging.

Frizzle Frye is probably the only American Fork style link-up at Rifle, yet ironically it follows a natural weakness (pod-type crack) in the rock and not just an arbitrary set of quickdraws. It basically moves diagonally right across most of the Nappy Dugout, starting left of Fringe Dweller, above which it crosses, before traversing right above the crux of Lungfish to join the top half of Drunk Monkey.

There are two distinct cruxes on this route, one a powerful set up on poor pockets, the other a very funky transition move across the faint Lungfish corner. Same some juice for the end, as the top of Drunk Monkey involves fairly sporty 5.11 climbing and some big reaches.

Cleaning this route is a bitch so you're best off finding some poor slob to second you on it.


Protection 

10 quickdraws and a strong right shoulder.



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