(Fritz) Wiesner Route
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch One
Wiesner's routes are an amazing thing to climb some 80 years later...
Up and Left of Hesitation to the first big corner.
On the left wall look up and see a chimney to a block roof sticking out of the Rock.
Pitch One: Climb the chimney to the block roof, climb the block to the left side and jam past this 5.6 crack to easier climbing. Belay is optional on ledge after small roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to the giant 3rd class ledge.
Move the belay to the far back of the ledge where there are three options for the last pitch.
Pitch Two: Follow the R. most crack/dihedral 30' to the top.
V1 Follow the middle (5.8) finger crack to the top. Nice couple of moves!
V2 Follow the Left Crack/Corner to the top (5.6)
|Comments on (Fritz) Wiesner Route
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.6 PG13
The guide has this described as three pitches (4 if you count the 3rd class traverse).
I did the standard route. Found gear to be lacking for a few moves near the top of P2, in the blocky wide chimney part above the roof before the tree belay/rap. Issue here is the amount of rope out, slack from the pro placed, and low angle of the pitch. Fall would likely be 15 feet onto low angle rock/ledge, even when done right. That means PG.
Also thought the protection on the last pitch was unlikely to stop me from decking, stances were predetermined and spread the first couple pieces a little too far apart. Great climbing nonetheless.
Definitely link P1 and 2 if you have a full rack. #3 cam was handy to protect the roof on P1. There's a few ways to pull the small roof on P1, the belly flop (as describe in the adk rock guide book) is optional.
|By Ian Dibbs|
Aug 6, 2011
The block up about 40 feet can be a bit of a challenge for a 5.6 route ...
First and second pitches can be linked without too much trouble,
A 70 meter rope will just make the ground from the first tree when decending
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 12, 2011
I found the right side of the block to be the easier way to surpass it. A "belly flop" is not required if you use all the available holds. And yes, definitely link P1 and P2 unless you need to "coach" your second through the block crux.
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.6 PG13
choss. this route is full of loose, ready to break off in your hand rock. still worthwhile and fun. felt a lil PG before getting good gear in a thin diagonal crack near the top of P2. would describe this as an adventure route.