|Mary's Bust - main buttress
Start Frisky Lady right of Stuck In Time and behind the tree. FL has three distinct cruxes. The first comes at bolt three where an open hand gains the clip, 5.11b/c. This used to be from a very nice crimp which has subsequently fallen off. The crux of the climb comes in gaining the large flake at 50ft. Originally this was picked up fairly easily from a good edge just below the flake. This too has broken off since the route was first bolted and run on jugs. Mark solved this with a burly and hard to reach push off the right side. If you are much less than 6ft tall this will seem nearly impossible, 5.12. The final crux comes in the ultra thin slab above. Nothing has changed here from the original. The slab is tricky, balancy, and elegant. The solution traverses low before entering the thiner moves above. Super well protected here, 5.11c. Kudos to Mark for finding a way through the second crux.
This lies behind the tree and left of SIT and the large flake at the base.
Quickdraws and 60meter rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.
|By Elijah Flenner|
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
The rock is a little friable in places, but the movement is great. The moves to the flake are hard to read. If a crucial foot hold or crimp breaks, this route will become much more difficult. The upper slab is very thin and hard. In my opinion, much harder than the lower section, but it was in direct sunlight.
|By Nathan Welton|
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Route condition seems pretty solid as of late May, 2011. Great climb. Harder for shorter climbers, but I watched my 5'9" wife hike the hard move in a few tries. It can be done, don't fret.
|By John Dubya|
Aug 12, 2012
This route is a chossfest. I felt like there were broken holds at all 3 cruxes, and as a matter of fact, I broke off at least a half dozen. Not sure why the route was extended through the blank slab on terrible quality rock (the last 3 bolts)? Also not sure what to rate this thing besides very hard given the conditions of the rock. On a positive note, it's well bolted, so all my leader falls were super mellow.