Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The 
Brown Palace, The 
Convolution 
Deceiver 
Disneyland 
Dynamite 
Fool Me Twice 
Frisky Lady 
Just in Time 
Lie Detector 
Mary's Jugs 
Mary's Tricks 
Maternal Damnation 
New Direction 
Out Of Time 
Proud Mary 
Stuck In Time 
There's Something About Mary 
Violet Blue 
Wingardium Leviosa 
Unsorted Routes:

Frisky Lady 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wright & Tarrant, Fall 2008, FFA Mark Tarrant
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical for MB in general.
Page Views: 730
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 4, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Start Frisky Lady right of Stuck In Time and behind the tree. FL has three distinct cruxes. The first comes at bolt three where an open hand gains the clip, 5.11b/c. This used to be from a very nice crimp which has subsequently fallen off. The crux of the climb comes in gaining the large flake at 50ft. Originally this was picked up fairly easily from a good edge just below the flake. This too has broken off since the route was first bolted and run on jugs. Mark solved this with a burly and hard to reach push off the right side. If you are much less than 6ft tall this will seem nearly impossible, 5.12. The final crux comes in the ultra thin slab above. Nothing has changed here from the original. The slab is tricky, balancy, and elegant. The solution traverses low before entering the thiner moves above. Super well protected here, 5.11c. Kudos to Mark for finding a way through the second crux.


Location 

This lies behind the tree and left of SIT and the large flake at the base.


Protection 

Quickdraws and 60meter rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.



Comments on Frisky Lady Add Comment
Show which comments
By Elijah Flenner
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

The rock is a little friable in places, but the movement is great. The moves to the flake are hard to read. If a crucial foot hold or crimp breaks, this route will become much more difficult. The upper slab is very thin and hard. In my opinion, much harder than the lower section, but it was in direct sunlight.

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Route condition seems pretty solid as of late May, 2011. Great climb. Harder for shorter climbers, but I watched my 5'9" wife hike the hard move in a few tries. It can be done, don't fret.

By John Dubya
Aug 12, 2012

This route is a chossfest. I felt like there were broken holds at all 3 cruxes, and as a matter of fact, I broke off at least a half dozen. Not sure why the route was extended through the blank slab on terrible quality rock (the last 3 bolts)? Also not sure what to rate this thing besides very hard given the conditions of the rock. On a positive note, it's well bolted, so all my leader falls were super mellow.