This cliff offers four sport climbs and one old Dan Hare gear route. Morning/early afternoon shade gives good sending temps to these 5.13- and up sport routes. Probably too cold in winter so the best time to climb here is spring, summer, or fall.
L->R these may be:
A. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts. B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts. C1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts. C2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts. D. Con Gaz, 1p, 60'. E. Last Tango, 10, 1p, gear. F. Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear. G. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts. H. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
I always park at "Castle Rock" (10-11 miles up the canyon). An alternative is to park at the chipped park,...er excuse me the Sport Park. Either way it's probably best to warm up at either crag. To approach the crag from the Castle, cross the little bridge just downriver from Country Club Crack. Once across follow a faint trail up past the cliff on your left (the Broken Cliff, I believe) to a flat aqueduct trail. Head west around the corner for about .5 miles. A pleasent hike with great views of the Castle. You will also pass the "Mountain Rose" cliff once on the aqueduct trail. Don't confuse these slabs with the Frisky Cliff routes. Steep bolted routes on your left is the big indication that you have reached your destination.
This very bouldery route traverses out the massive overhang on the right side of the Frisky Cliff. A stout first dyno and swing, then heelhooks and crimps to a short corner and tricky slab. This route had its 15 minutes of fame when Ben Moon of the UK was photographed for Climbing Magazine in a snowstorm on this route. Some have argued for a harder grade but for today's bouldering mutants this may prove a pleasant morning's outing. Morning shade, well worth the hike....[more]Browse More Classics in CO