2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This cliff offers four sport climbs and one old Dan Hare gear route. Morning/early afternoon shade gives good sending temps to these 5.13- and up sport routes. Probably too cold in winter so the best time to climb here is spring, summer, or fall.
L->R these may be:
A. Van Damage, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts. B. The Orb, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts. C1. Sinopia, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts. C2. Sin Gaz, 12, 1p, 60', bolts. D. Con Gaz, 1p, 60'. E. Last Tango, 10, 1p, gear. F. Frisky, 10-, 1p, gear. G. The Borg, 13, 1p, 70', bolts. H. Rumors of Glory, 13, 1p, bolts.
I always park at "Castle Rock" (10-11 miles up the canyon). An alternative is to park at the chipped park,...er excuse me the Sport Park. Either way it's probably best to warm up at either crag. To approach the crag from the Castle, cross the little bridge just downriver from Country Club Crack. Once across follow a faint trail up past the cliff on your left (the Broken Cliff, I believe) to a flat aqueduct trail. Head west around the corner for about .5 miles. A pleasent hike with great views of the Castle. You will also pass the "Mountain Rose" cliff once on the aqueduct trail. Don't confuse these slabs with the Frisky Cliff routes. Steep bolted routes on your left is the big indication that you have reached your destination.
Rumors of Glory ascends the overhang on the far right side of Frisky Cliff (just to the right of the Borg). This climb is only about 10 moves long and more like a V7/8 boulder problem. While the climbing is pretty casual for the first half of the overhang, the latter part is bouldery and a bit heady, especially the final throw to the lip. Even though there is a chipped hold, "Rumors" is a lot of fun and makes for a great summer climb. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO