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The Nappy Dugout
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drunken Monkey S 
Family Jewels S 
Family Unit S 
Fossil Family S 
Fringe Dweller S 
Frizzle Frye S 
Ivory Tower S 
Kingfisher S 
Lung Fish S 
Mr. Cranky Pants S 
Perfect Gun, The S 
PMS S 
PMT S 
Z Man S 

Fringe Dweller 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Scott Leonard
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 11, 2001

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Description 

This route doesn't seem to get done much, maybe because it's more bouldery than the usual Rifle fare or maybe because it's stinking hard for the grade.

This is one route left of Lungfish and starts on the faint "Never Believe"-like pillar to the right of the big gash. A bouldery, cruxy start leads to powerful climbing and a final boulder problem on the overhanging blue rock. Though it may look tempting (and easy) to step left into the big pod, it won't do you much good, as it's desperate getting over there.

Better just to stay on route and move left into the pod from the jutting cube on the right. A brief hand-jam rest at the top of the pod lets you bleed it back for the redpoint crux.

Protection 

8-10 quickdraws.


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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 1, 2002

And when he says brief hand-jam, he means full recovery hands-free inverted foot jam! One of my favs at Rifle.