Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Alcohol Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Friendship Route 
Gin Ricky 
Mai Tai 
Rob Roy 
Straight Shot 

Friendship Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst and company, Fall 1976
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: John Hegyes on May 14, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Brett swims up Friendship Route p1.

Description 

Friendship Route is the rightmost corner on the Alcohol Wall.

P1 (110 feet, 5.8) Follow the corner to a two bolt anchor. The wide crack looks low angle, but is actually a little awkward.

P2 (40 feet, 5.9) Continue up the corner, stemming on balls, past a bolt. Belay on the massive ledge from a bush.

Walk east on the ledge and rappel with two ropes from the two bolt anchor atop Rob Roy.


Protection 

Rack up to 7".



Photos of Friendship Route Slideshow Add Photo
Friendship Route p2.
BETA PHOTO: Friendship Route p2.
Friendship Route. Belays marked.
BETA PHOTO: Friendship Route. Belays marked.
Friendship Route
BETA PHOTO: Friendship Route
Friendship Route p1.
BETA PHOTO: Friendship Route p1.
Friendship Route p2.
BETA PHOTO: Friendship Route p2.
Comments on Friendship Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 14, 2009

Pretty stout for 5.9 climbing. A #6 Camalot was definitely helpful for the wide section.

Also, it's important to note that the route can certainly be climbed in a single pitch. The crux however is immediately off the p1 anchor so we opted not to link the pitches so that close visual contact could be made at the crux.

By Tradoholic
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Old school cool route! If you don't have a large cam you can gun for a narrow spot ~12ft after starting the wide crack. There I got a bomber Met #9 Powercam and then gunned for the chains. Secure, if you are ok with off-width technique.

We skipped the second pitch, it looked uninviting and dirty. We also put some new quicklinks and webbing on the P1 anchor. Enjoy!

By Vince Neil
Apr 13, 2012

Always a great adventure on a Herbst route. Only did the first pitch but definitely coming back to do the second! From the first pitch anchors the second pitch actually looked like quality climbing...like the lotta balls crux pitch but stouter. If your sketching on the first pitch wide crack you can always walk a #6 up the cruxy sections....but it's not too bad if you just jam whatever part of your body fits in that thing and just heave upward...at one point I had a pretty good head-jam. Quality climbing overall. PS. Thanks for the quicklinks and new webbing on the 1st pitch anchor it really needed it. Solid.