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 ADVANCED
The Millenium Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Heart 
Cargo Cult 
Epiphany 
Friend to Fanboy 
Ghost Dance 
Ghost Dance (crimp start) 
Goat Dyno 
Hickey's V7 
Island Time 
Lono 
Moon Child 
Old Bones 
Prow Problem 
Purity Control 
Second Coming (aka Revelation?) 
Unsorted Routes:

Friend to Fanboy 

Hueco: V10+ Font: 7C+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 18'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10+ Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Chuck Fryberger
Page Views: 971
Submitted By: Chuck Fryberger on Apr 2, 2010

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The crux of Friend to Fanboy.

Description 

This problem starts on a small crimp edge about 10 feet right of Ghost Dance, and about 8 feet left of Moon Child. Gill-start to a small right hand pocket and proceed up the face. This route is independent from Ghost Dance (though you could link if desired). It has an exciting finish. A much harder start could be done by replacing the Gill start with a matched pull-on on the edge. This would add lots of difficulty but no quality.

Protection 

Pads and spotters. Watch out for the end. The last move could be one of the more dangerous on the boulder.


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