Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Q Crags
Select Route:
Crusade.  T 
Everlastingyes T 
Feet First. 5.9 R T 
Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R T 
Remembrance Day T 
Rolling Stones, The T 
Senile Dementia. T 
Stone the Crows T 

Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 530', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter. 27th Aug 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: USBRIT on Aug 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The route:-"Fried Brains on Toast" 530'II 5.9-R

Description 

As the name suggests the climb was on sighted in extreme heat (about 98f in the shade)Ultra desert heat climbing is a experience not to be missed !.
P1) From the gully traverse out right towards the bottom of the brown hole filled wall ,then follow the easy groove on its left to reach the ledge below the impressive big slab.Natural belay.160'5.4R.
P2) Six bolts protect this pitch that first trends up to the right then at about 140'up left to reach the start of a long diagonal groove/ledge.Double anchors.190'5.9-R.
P3) Directly above the belay is one bolt that protects a 5.8 move left to reach an 5.4 slab that is followed straight up (no pro on slab) to a short crack and double anchors just below a massive ledge system.180'5.8.....

Descent. Rap the route ,good tree anchor on final rap to ground.


Location 

The climb is situated about midway along the Great White Wall that lies South of Three Fingers Canyon. The walk takes about 30 mins from Three Fingers. See beta photos for visual location.


Protection 

One #2 Camelot. Quick draws ,Slings, Two 60m ropes.



Photos of Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R Slideshow Add Photo
On top...Totally fried . View along the Northern part of the Reef. Photo Layne Potter
On top...Totally fried . View along the Northern p...
Paul starting the long second pitch.Photo Layne Potter.
Paul starting the long second pitch.Photo Layne Po...
Nearing the belay area top of pitch 2.Photo Layne Potter.
Nearing the belay area top of pitch 2.Photo Layne ...
About a 140'up on the second pitch.From here the climb moves up to the left to reach the ledge and small bushes above.Photo Layne Potter.
About a 140'up on the second pitch.From here the c...
View along Great White Wall from near Three Fingers Canyon showing location of the climb.
View along Great White Wall from near Three Finger...
Comments on Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -