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 ADVANCED
Third Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1911 Gully T 
Blazing Biners T,S 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 
Dog's Head Cutoff T 
East Face (Standard) T 
East Face Left T 
Extra Point T 
Falcon's Fracture T 
Friday's Folly T 
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 
Funny Games T,TR 
Greenman's Crack T,TR 
Holier than Thou S 
Inner Sanctum T 
Northwest Passage T 
Pentaprance T 
Ph.D. Roof T 
Right Of Spring T 
Saturday's Folly T 
Sayonara T,S 
Shoyu State S 
South Chimney T 
Southwest Chimney T 
Super Woo T 
Thin Crack T 
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 
Third World Zone T 
Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
Waiting For Columbus T,S 
West Door T 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 
Winky Woo T 
Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Friday's Folly Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Friday?
Season: when there are no bird closures
Page Views: 752
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is really an exciting, little, connection pitch between Friday's Folly & West Door. From the top of Friday's Folly & the western eye bolts, you continue up linking features which include a difficult to protect, wide cracks (with a pin), corners, and even some arete moves (7 R). You can belay out left below the overhang of West Door or at the eyebolt for the 2nd rap off the 3rd Flatiron.

    It's probably not a destination climb, but it does serve to make for a nice linkup up the backside to the summit.

    This was originally described under G. Bell's West Door entry.


    Location 

    On the SW aspect of the 3rd Flatiron, between Friday's Folly and West Door.


    Protection 

    A crafty bugger will find more than the 5 pieces of pro here that I did. Nonetheless, it is not much.



    Comments on Friday's Folly Direct Add Comment
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    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 26, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    This isn't a climb to approach lightly. There is one 30 footish section where it is imposible to place pro and serious fall could result. This same section also contains the hardest parts of the climb. As soon as I finished the unprotectable part, I jammed about three pieces in within a five foot span to make myself feel better. Be confident at the grade and be prepared for what feels like a free solo. Come equipped with big cahones or lack of grey matter.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jan 27, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    Climbing this directly up the arete to the edge and staying on that arete is harder, has less gear and is a little heads-up for gear but offers some variety. You end up above the 2nd bolted belay a way and have to build an anchor of small cams and small/med nuts.