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 ADVANCED
Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrowhead 
Frictionite S 
Mists of Mordor S 
Staff 
Trash Crack T 

Frictionite 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Travis Thompson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Travis Thompson on Sep 12, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Frictionite (L) with Mists of Mordor (R).

Description 

I bolted and climbed this route at about an easy 5.9 or so, then there was a big loose block just before the second bolt, so I removed it for safety sake and then realized that it made the climb a lot harder. I haven't been able to figure it out yet, maybe someone with some good slab technique can.

The bottom to the first bolt is kind of loose, but once again I have never pulled down anything [unexpectedly]. This isn't worth driving up for in and of itself, but if you're in the area give it a shot.

Protection 

This is the short climb just before Mists of Mordor. There are three bolts and a two-bolt anchor.


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Up, up, and away.
Up, up, and away.

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By allen simons
May 9, 2006

I top roped this climb and think it to be solid 5.10. I jumped on it to lead it and quickly got off it and set up a top rope. Very loose!
By Tymothe
From: Fort Collins, Co
Sep 9, 2006

This is a solid climb that needs some TLC. I think that it has a lot of potential to be a safely traveled climb. Just like on "Mists of Mordor", avoid the chossy areas, and be careful when pulling on hold as you might pull something lose and endanger yourself and passing motorists. To avoid this, stick to the route. Cheers! Tymothe