Friction Face Panty Waist  5.8+

1,558 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Danny Meyers, Brad Stewart 1989 Season:  Fall-Spring Submitted By:  TomCaldwell on Apr 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mary showing that this face requires some good foo...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Friction Face is a sustained and exciting slab climb. There are multiple difficult sections with very few positive holds to rest on. The bolts are well spaced to make this a spicy, but safe lead. This climb faces south and requires a good amount of friction, so save it for those cooler days.

From a nice belay ledge, climb straight up clipping a bolt and begin to trend up and left. Clip a few more bolts and head straight up through a varnished section of rock. Some of the varnish is questionable, so use caution. Pull over a ledge and your at the anchors.

Note, there is another set of anchors to the left in a right facing corner, this is for another climb. You should climb straight up after the last bolt. It also seems that this climb may have "sprouted" a retro bolt.

Location 

If you are heading up towards the Running Man wall, you take the 3rd/4th scramble up the slabs, this is directly above that approach. When you top out the stemming move from the scramble and reach the Running Man platform, bee line straight up to the face. You will notice a short un-aesthic right facing dihedral just to the left of this climb and bolts on a red face. This is about 50yds to climbers left of the climb Running Man. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Protection 

All bolts. Handren book suggests 6 bolts, but there are definitely 7. Fixed rap anchors on top of a sloping ledge.

Photos of Friction Face Panty Waist Slideshow

Add Photo

Mary using her friction skills.	BETA PHOTO: Looking up at "Frictiony Face Panty Waist".	Friction Face Panty Waist