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Running Man Wall
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Friction Face Panty Waist 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Danny Meyers, Brad Stewart 1989
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 2,419
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Apr 4, 2011

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Mary showing that this face requires some good foo...

Description 

Friction Face is a sustained and exciting slab climb. There are multiple difficult sections with very few positive holds to rest on. The bolts are well spaced to make this a spicy, but safe lead. This climb faces south and requires a good amount of friction, so save it for those cooler days.

From a nice belay ledge, climb straight up clipping a bolt and begin to trend up and left. Clip a few more bolts and head straight up through a varnished section of rock. Some of the varnish is questionable, so use caution. Pull over a ledge and your at the anchors.

Note, there is another set of anchors to the left in a right facing corner, this is for another climb. You should climb straight up after the last bolt. It also seems that this climb may have "sprouted" a retro bolt.

Location 

If you are heading up towards the Running Man wall, you take the 3rd/4th scramble up the slabs, this is directly above that approach. When you top out the stemming move from the scramble and reach the Running Man platform, bee line straight up to the face. You will notice a short un-aesthic right facing dihedral just to the left of this climb and bolts on a red face. This is about 50yds to climbers left of the climb Running Man. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Protection 

All bolts. Handren book suggests 6 bolts, but there are definitely 7. Fixed rap anchors on top of a sloping ledge.


Photos of Friction Face Panty Waist Slideshow Add Photo
Mantling up thru the mid-section, feels thin but the angle is super low
BETA PHOTO: Mantling up thru the mid-section, feels thin but t...
Mary using her friction skills.
Mary using her friction skills.
Friction Face Panty Waist
Friction Face Panty Waist
Looking up at "Frictiony Face Panty Waist".
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at "Frictiony Face Panty Waist&quo...
Panty waist, about here your looking for a rest
Panty waist, about here your looking for a rest

Comments on Friction Face Panty Waist Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 2, 2011

The first bolt is a retrobolt, skip it for some historical perspective.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Nov 22, 2012

Another great slab climb. No rests on this one it's sustained. But nicely bolted. I think this climb, ultraman, head case, white slab and lotta balls offer a great education in slab climbing in the 5.8 range in RR.
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the best slab climbs in RR. Sustained hut doable for the grade. Either the closer anchor or the higher up one. The route is the same. Must do.