Friction Addiction  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Nathan Brown - rope solo FKA of P-4 Shannon Stegg New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  nbrown on Feb 18, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Friction Addiction is in blue, with red X for bolt...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P-1 Same as Stranger Than Friction -- Easy slab past a couple of cruxes to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 180'

P-2 Climb past a bolt to gear. Sling long and move left past large pocket (#4 camelot), then straight up groove to a bolt up and right. Move up and right past a finger sized cam (hybrid useful) to 2 bolt anchor. Note: "Stranger..." moves left at the large cam to a separate anchor. 5.10- 180'

P-3 Place a shallow but good # 7 stopper in seam, and then climb the bolt line past some thin but cool climbing that turns into grooving. Continue up the groove to a 2 bolt anchor up and slightly right (25' higher than the "Stranger..." anchor). 6 bolts and no gear past the stopper. 5.10+ 115'

P-4 Climb the moderate groove for about 140' past numerous gear placements to the "Stranger..." anchor. 5.8 140' Note: The FA of this section had been done years ago as a safer way to finish up Stranger Than Friction. FKA of this section was by Shannon Stegg.

P-5 Finish on Stranger Than Friction -- easy grooving with minimal gear to tree's. 5.6 190' Note: Rap from bolts up and right on "The Route Of The Living Dead".

Location 

Start on Stranger Than Friction. This route climbs the right hand streak of the two to the top.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Maybe some finger sized hybrid cams. Large tricams are useful but not necessary.

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BETA PHOTO: Routes in the vicinity from a familiar perspective...