P-1 Same as Stranger Than Friction -- Easy slab past a couple of cruxes to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 180'
P-2 Climb past a bolt to gear. Sling long and move left past large pocket (#4 camelot), then straight up groove to a bolt up and right. Move up and right past a finger sized cam (hybrid useful) to 2 bolt anchor. Note: "Stranger..." moves left at the large cam to a separate anchor. 5.10- 180'
P-3 Place a shallow but good # 7 stopper in seam, and then climb the bolt line past some thin but cool climbing that turns into grooving. Continue up the groove to a 2 bolt anchor up and slightly right (25' higher than the "Stranger..." anchor). 6 bolts and no gear past the stopper. 5.10+ 115'
P-4 Climb the moderate groove for about 140' past numerous gear placements to the "Stranger..." anchor. 5.8 140' Note: The FA of this section had been done years ago as a safer way to finish up Stranger Than Friction. FKA of this section was by Shannon Stegg.
P-5 Finish on Stranger Than Friction -- easy grooving with minimal gear to tree's. 5.6 190' Note: Rap from bolts up and right on "The Route Of The Living Dead".
Start on Stranger Than Friction. This route climbs the right hand streak of the two to the top.
Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Maybe some finger sized hybrid cams. Large tricams are useful but not necessary.
BETA PHOTO: Friction Addiction is in blue, with red X for bolt...
May 6, 2012
Awesome climbing. Another must do LK route!
From: western NC
May 11, 2012
Glad you enjoyed it Stephen!