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Heat Wave 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Darrah, rope solo, 1989 (Rolofson, retrobolted in 2013)
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dave hops aboard the hanging slab.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a line that is probably not worth the effort due to its rock quality. More traffic may not help. It may be somewhat better than Short But Sweet or unlikely even possibly a retrobolted version of the same.

Apparently, this route is Heat Wave, and M. Rolofson admits to retrobolting it, which led to the confusion in it not matching the route's original equipment.

Start left of a tree in the shade on crumbly rock. Clip 2 bolts (the 2nd has a red hanger), and move leftwards onto the crumbly slab below a tiny bulge. Hop aboard the hanging slab with slick rock between crumbly breaks in the patina. At the last bolt, there are at least 3 options, including traversing left to the arete, stemming to the arete, and climbing the slippery, crumbly, rounded edges to gain the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Some will argue star vs. bomb rating, I'm nearly split.

I don't recommend climbing this when it is wet.

Location 

This route ascends a right-facing, hanging slab.

Protection 

7 Fixe bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with rings.


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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Leo's name for this route sums it up pretty well. I'll give it one star to yield the half-star average that it deserves. It may warrant a full star some day if the crumbly parts are reduced with use. (Although then all the holds may be gone, making the top a 5.11 slippery face.)
By gdw
Aug 5, 2014

I believe the name is Heat Wave, Darrah 1989 rope solo 5.10c; listed in at least 3 guidebooks, for ex. Rossiter, 1999, Falcon Press.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 9, 2014

GDW, thanks for the input. Oddly, p 272 of Rossiter's 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon guide lists Heat Wave as having 3 bolts, protecting with RPs, climbing an arete, and being a 5.10c. This little route climbs a face mostly, has 7 bolts, and is not 5.10. The bolts look newer than 1999, too. My guess is that it is newer than that.
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Yes, the name of the route is "Heat Wave", and I retro-bolted it in 2013 after leading it rope solo with its old bolts and gear. I have since climbed the route with several people, all who enjoyed it. So, what's your problem, Leo? Traditude or just picky? Having more bolts is nice. I originally finished up the rotten arete, but I now always climb directly up the face with a crux above the last bolt. When I retro-bolted it, I pulled off a large block that I had used as a clipping hold. The route is safe. I used long 1/2" bolts, because the dynamited rock is softer than your typical Boulder Canyon granite. I felt the crag deserved a 5.10 sport route, which at the time had none.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 6, 2014

Mark, thanks for the clarification. You seem to be reading in more meaning than there is. The description is as we found it. The rock's quality makes it less appealing than 90+% of Boulder Canyon's routes. As I wrote, some may like it. As you described in that clipping block pulling off, holds still crumble on this route. A warning as such is warranted. There are many better routes in the canyon, including many of yours, Mark.
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 14, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Perhaps I am reading too much into your opinion. That said it really caught my attention to see this route rated 5.9 with a bomb for quality rating. First, the route was originally graded .10c. If you had led it with its original gear, I will bet no one would have called it 5.9. I could agree that in its original state you could bomb this route. There was a bail biner on the 3rd bolt when I led it rope solo. I went the easiest way finishing up the rotten arÍte. I thought there were 5.10 moves at what is now the 3rd bolt & traversing to the arÍte finish. I retrobolted it to avoid climbing the rotten arÍte & to stay on the face which definitely feels like solid 5.10. Perhaps the moves at the 3rd bolt have cleaned up & gotten easier. So maybe following the line of least resistance is 5.9, but I have to wonder, does the protection affect the mindset of many leaders enough that the same moves receive dramatically different YDS grades? Seeing the significant downrating of the easier sport climbs at this crag makes me wonder. Is it good for a 5.10 or 5.11 leader to downrate a 5.9 to 5.7 or 5.8- or is it an ego thing?
By George Bracksieck
Aug 14, 2015

I led this four or five years ago. The existing bolts were old and rusty; the trad gear funky; and there was no anchor. I had to build an anchor somewhere up to the right. My wife couldn't follow, so I rapped and cleaned, then scrambled around to the top to clean my anchor. I thought that it was 10-, perhaps because I, too, continued up the rotten arete. Now that it may be a better climb, I'd like to do it again.
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