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Heat Wave 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Darrah, rope solo, 1989 (Rolofson, retrobolted in 2013)
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 10, 2014

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Dave hops aboard the hanging slab.

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Description 

This is a line that is probably not worth the effort due to its rock quality. More traffic may not help. It may be somewhat better than Short But Sweet or unlikely even possibly a retrobolted version of the same.

Apparently, this route is Heat Wave, and M. Rolofson admits to retrobolting it, which led to the confusion in it not matching the route's original equipment.

Start left of a tree in the shade on crumbly rock. Clip 2 bolts (the 2nd has a red hanger), and move leftwards onto the crumbly slab below a tiny bulge. Hop aboard the hanging slab with slick rock between crumbly breaks in the patina. At the last bolt, there are at least 3 options, including traversing left to the arete, stemming to the arete, and climbing the slippery, crumbly, rounded edges to gain the 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Some will argue star vs. bomb rating, I'm nearly split.

I don't recommend climbing this when it is wet.

Location 

This route ascends a right-facing, hanging slab.

Protection 

7 Fixe bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with rings.


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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Leo's name for this route sums it up pretty well. I'll give it one star to yield the half-star average that it deserves. It may warrant a full star some day if the crumbly parts are reduced with use. (Although then all the holds may be gone, making the top a 5.11 slippery face.)
By gdw
Aug 5, 2014

I believe the name is Heat Wave, Darrah 1989 rope solo 5.10c; listed in at least 3 guidebooks, for ex Rossiter 1999 falcon press
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 9, 2014

GDW, thanks for the input. Oddly, p 272 of Rossiter's 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon guide lists Heat Wave as having 3 bolts, protecting with RPs, climbing an arete, and being a 5.10c. This little route climbs a face mostly, has 7 bolts, and is not 5.10. The bolts look newer than 1999, too. My guess is that it is newer than that.
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Yes, the name of the route is "Heat Wave", and I retro-bolted it in 2013 after leading it rope solo with its old bolts and gear. I have since climbed the route with several people, all who enjoyed it. So, what's your problem, Leo? Traditude or just picky? Having more bolts is nice. I originally finished up the rotten arete, but I now always climb directly up the face with a crux above the last bolt. When I retro-bolted it, I pulled off a large block that I had used as a clipping hold. The route is safe. I used long 1/2" bolts, because the dynamited rock is softer than your typical Boulder Canyon granite. I felt the crag deserved a 5.10 sport route, which at the time had none.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 6, 2014

Mark, thanks for the clarification. You seem to be reading in more meaning than there is. The description is as we found it. The rock's quality makes it less appealing than 90+% of Boulder Canyon's routes. As I wrote, some may like it. As you described in that clipping block pulling off, holds still crumble on this route. A warning as such is warranted. There are many better routes in the canyon, including many of yours, Mark.