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Big Slide Mtn.
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Freudian Slip 
Slide Rules 

Freudian Slip 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed and Ann Palen, Joe Seftel
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 2,866
Submitted By: Rafiki on Nov 6, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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View from the top

Description 

This is the best slab climb I've ever done and I only got to do the first pitch due to darkness and rain. The climbing is exposed, very thoughtful, delicate and footwork intensive. In late summer the slab is covered with a colorful canvas of lichen (but not slippery) which really makes you search for "holds".

When my partner and I approached the base I called it a "pussy route" and offered to lead in my approach shoes. I must've been delirious because I was hungover, fatigued, dehydrated and had the worst case of ball chafing ever. Good thing he convinced me otherwise. I had never felt my facial muscles spasm while clipping a bolt..something just short of a religious experience..


Location 

Keep walking along the base of the slab until you see bolts. Freudian Slip is just to the left of Slide Rules 5.7 which only has 2 bolts per pitch.


Protection 

The route is completely bolted, but some bolts are 15-20ft apart. If I had known this before hand, I might've thought twice about leading it..but I'm glad I did lead it. Just do it.

At the end of the first pitch I didn't have much of my 50m left. Bring 2X 60m



Photos of Freudian Slip Slideshow Add Photo
John Ciccone following the first pitch of Freudian Slip 5.9-
John Ciccone following the first pitch of Freudian...
View to the climber's right from P1 belay
View to the climber's right from P1 belay
The view from the top of pitch 1
The view from the top of pitch 1
The North Face of Gothics as seen from the face of Big Slide.
The North Face of Gothics as seen from the face of...
View to the climber's left from P1 belay
View to the climber's left from P1 belay
At the base
At the base
Original Bblt at the top of P2 of Slide Rules and Freudian Slip. Don't worry, there are two new ones :-)
Original Bblt at the top of P2 of Slide Rules and ...
Approx. Half way up P1 Freudian Slip
Approx. Half way up P1 Freudian Slip
Comments on Freudian Slip Add Comment
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By Eric8
From: Framingham
Aug 29, 2009

No offense but I don't see how this route is 4 stars. Most of the climbing uses exfoliating flakes that you just have to hope won't break when you stand up on them. In addition the climb follows no real line, I know that slab climbs can be a little vague in this regard. But it seems you could go up anywhere on the face at about the same grade. Not worth the hike with two ropes though the hike without the ropes might be worth. We didn't finish the route either because we didn't think it was worth it...

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
May 27, 2010

This is a great route in an unbeleivable location. Fun sustained climbing on slabby crimps and nobs on really cool green lichen-covered rock. It says in the book that the initial section can be protected at a 1" crack, but I could not find any gear worth anything, and therefore just ran it out. However, the moves to the first bolt are not very hard. This route is sustained, but all there, and mild as ADK 5.9's go IMO. Be forewarned that the bolts are well spaced - unlike a sport climb. A fall before making a clip would mean a long, scary skid down the steep slab. It would probably not result in death or serious injury, but you could definitely get scraped up. Therefore I call this PG. But this is not a reason not to do the route!!!!!

If you just take 7 quickdraws and a skinny rope (we took one of my double ropes - there are no sharp edge falls to worry about)you will have a very light pack, making the whole outing very enjoyable. 2nd pitch is short but steeper and definitely worth doing (and necessary if you only have 1 60m rope for rapelling). You can do 2 60m raps via the anchor on Slide Rules to climber's right.

If you are just into climbing you may be disappointed by this route. But if you like long ADK outings with fantastic scenery, and a fun climb thrown in, this will be a great day. You can make the hike a loop too, for added experience, and from the summit lookout you can see nearly every high peak!

By Gunkiemike
Aug 5, 2010

Nick is right - this isn't your average roadside crag and the climb should not be evaluated as such. Rather, it is "an outing", where the approach and return hike are significant parts of the entire experience. Hit the peak fall colors just right on a crisp bluebird day, and you will cherish this little 2 pitch route for years.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 6, 2010

If you like this climb, you can get a longer version of it with a shorter approach at the Upper Slab at Olympic Acres (aka Bear Den).

By Kenyoj
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 21, 2011

Great slab climb. I thought the bolts were plentiful. Hand holds are sometimes little flakes that feel like you could pull them off, but they hold. Super sticky rock makes for great foot smearing, but it takes time to build up confidence on it. Beautiful views, no crowds, overall great climb if you are ok with a hike in and only 2 pitches. Oh yea and the 2nd pitch is very short and slightly dirty, but the hand holds are larger and plentiful.

First pitch
First pitch


Anchor on the first pitch
Anchor on the first pitch

By Mark Trotta
From: Latham, NY
Aug 2, 2012

I did a detailed trip report here: forums.adkhighpeaks.com/showthread.php?t=18527
...of our ascent of Big Slide via Freudian Slip, P1 & P2 followed by Slide Rules, P3 and a bushwhack to the peak.
Beware there's a lot of detail in that trip report regarding gear, rock conditions, etc... So if you don't want any spoilers, then DONT READ IT!

Summary of above is Freudian Slip is great; graded correctly, bolts well placed. Lawyer/Hass book has good directions to the base of the crag. Slide rules' upper pitch was an adventure, be solid at the grade for sure. Bushwhack to the peak was an adventure as well. I know why folks stop at the second pitch of F.S., but it was a lot of good type II fun :-) i'd be glad to do the whole thing over again...or look for another adventure just like this one. Or better yet, for the approach involved, I'd opt for Noonmark over Big Slide. Been to both now and Noonmark fits my prefered climbing style.