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 ADVANCED
The Main Pinecliffe Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Frenzy T 
Hardman Jr. S 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 
Pica S 
Vanderslice, The T 

Frenzy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2002

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Description 

This is a fun climb with some interesting moves. Make your way to the Pinecliffe area and move around right along the base past the bolted routes. You will come across a corner crack system with a 10' to 15' roof. Start up the crack (5.9) and continue up the corner until you hit the roof. Traverse out left (5.10a) and make a balanced move to the ledge and a fixed anchor. Entire route is easily protected and a #3 or #3.5 Camalot works well to protect the traverse. Try this... you can get an interesting no hands rest under the roof by pressing your head against an overhanging section.

Protection 

Standard rack to 4".


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By pete cogan
Aug 15, 2003

An alternative finish: instead of going to the chains, head straight up the off width. At the top, you can traverse R to the bolted anchors on top of Crescent Moon and rap easily with a 60m. Also, the head-jam-rest is a must move. Fun route.