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The Shield
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Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 
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French Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: James Crump, David Belton
Season: All Year
Page Views: 708
Submitted By: J C Wilks on May 11, 2009

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The face climbing standard of the rating at E-Rock, this route has an unprotectable start at about 5.8 to the right end of a ledge. Go left on the ledge which has a thin horizontal crack above it. The only pro this crack will take are two (equalized) slider nuts or RPs of the smallest sizes. Then a few moves left off the ledge to reach the first bolt and the crux section follows. Work out the moves over the steep crystal face past 3-4 bolts. Diagonal up to the right on increasingly lower angle face moves, over to the two bolt anchor above another horizontal crack. Pitch two is on a much easier run out slab with sparse pro.

Go right on the large ledge above the second pitch to the rap station above News Wall or rap the first pitch. You can also scramble off either end of the ledge to walk over the top if you are done with the backside.


French Route is located left of the Edge of Night hourglass flake on the right end of The Shield.


Bring a few small to med pieces to protect the thin crack and the exit moves.

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By Ryan A. Ray
From: Weatherford, TX
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is protected well on the low steep section but then becomes runout up easy terrain once you pull over the overlap where the two bolt intermediate belay is.
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