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French Reality 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c WI6

Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c WI6 [details]
FA: Claude Blazy, Francois Damilano, Phillippe Pirabot Mar 92
Page Views: 1,414
Submitted By: jmath on Dec 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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french reality is on the far right side of the pho...

Photos of French Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route is on the right side
The route is on the right side
Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch and then traverse to the left to the s...
first pitch and then traverse to the left to the s...
Rock Climbing Photo: P2, M7.
P2, M7.

Comments on French Reality Add Comment
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By jmath
From: durango, CO
Dec 21, 2010

extra beta would be nice for this route, its a bit fuzzy since 2005. Thanks
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Feb 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 PG13

We climbed it in late Feb 2010 and it went at M7 WI6+R. I think we hit it kinda late but managed to work our way up this excellent line. The ice was beginning to rot out and delam until the final fatty stretch to the cave. We took a standard trad rack to 3" and a few pins and basically ran out sections that did not afford protection. We did it in 3 full pitches. I recall a few fixed pins in the upper section of the mini chimney before the nasty-fun WI6+ pitch. As for most routes here, you gotta truck in and glass them to see if it's a line for you.
By jmath
From: durango, CO
May 25, 2012

Thanks Rob....I thought it was a really fun and challenging route, my partner and I had similar conditions, especially the pitch after the chimney which was overhanging and outrageous and then better on up.
By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Dec 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6

My partner and I both thought that it would be better for the pitch two belayer to use an anchor about 15' right of the anchor that's at the base of the second pitch. It's a more protected position and we added a second fixed pin. Check it out. We also thought the approach pitch was easy but sketchy, and the first pitch solid M7 (when dry).

Furthermore, the route is closer to 150 meters, not feet.

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