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This climb faces north on the Milepost and gets some shade, at least in winter days. It offers good gear and fun moves, albeit a pain to build an anchor up top and get down from.
Go to the north face of the Milepost (right side, if viewing from the road) and scramble up a few rocks to find 2 easy crack systems on the back of this rock. The left-most of these is French Flies (5.7) & the right is Chocolate Snake (5.6).
Belay up top in a notch (body for a chock/anchor) or scramble over the cliff to the south side and scramble down to the bolt anchors above The Gettysburger and belay. Rap from the same anchors, or down-climb the north face. Retreat is a pain.
A few nuts and cams
BETA PHOTO: "French Flies".
Photo by Blitzo.
From: Palm Desert, CA
Feb 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Good route. fun moves and protects well. Can knock out two routes quickly with the 5.6 next to it. I'd suggest calling dibs on leading this one first and let your partner climb the "easier" (sarcasm) 5.6. Rap anchors seemed a bit out of the way to consider using as a belay, take your time and be careful down climbing to them.