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At the third bolt.
This route is really fun. It is bushy at the beginning. It has multiple starts to get on this route. We used gear through the crux past the third bolt. Like that, you can make this one long pitch. We used a 70 meter. I made two raps to get to the base.
This route is 2 routes right of Lord of the Flies
on the Devil's Horn (from Tod Anderson's guide).
15 draws and gear to 3 inches. I used a #0.5 Camalot, a #3 Camalot and a #2 Camalot. 19 draws total if you run all the pitches together.
At the second belay anchor, 2nd 5.8 section.
By Jay Eggleston
Nov 1, 2012
This is a really fun pitch, and you better have hand-jamming skills for the first part.
By Mark Roth
Nov 4, 2012
Great to do as 1 pitch. There is still enough rope to lower back to the 2nd anchor and a great stance. One rappel from here to the ground....