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Bluff Street Cracks
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Deface Crack T 
Freeze Dried Bat T 
Inspired and Perspired T 
Joseph Meeks T 
Pig Lloyd T 
Red Warrior T 
Wide Boy T 

Freeze Dried Bat 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 586
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 27, 2010

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Unknown
Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting

Description 

A crack of expanding proportions...

A less than solid overhanging hand crack with a surprise ending. This back bending fracture delivers more than a few scrapes and bruises. Bomber hands, a delicate lie-back, and an insecure, "walk on water" crux make for a wild ride with big air time potential.

Approach slightly right of the crack on more solid rock, work up and left to gain a ledge, rest and get a good eye on the arc. Work yourself into the splitter, dipping in and out using edges and chips randomly spaced throughout the route. Work up into the apex, and meet the puzzling crux. Tip-toe through this feature to a less than ideal rest, fire the wide red point crux and finish on a ledge. High five yourself for making it!


Location 

Directly left of Wide Boy is this overhanging hand crack. Easily identified by its crack and flaky nature, this is the only arcing crack that ends in an off-width.


Protection 

An ideal rack would include one #1, three #2's and two #3 camalots. You can get away with a #1, two #2's and a #3 if you walk the lower #2 up a bit from the start. Finish on a ledge at a chain anchor.



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By brianadvenures
From: slc
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

fun old route. The crux is after the hand crack, felt more like a solid 10 offwidth move.