|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Kevin Worrell, George Meyers, Roger Breedlove, 1973|
|Season:||Spring to Fall|
|Submitted By:||stuart.h on Sep 25, 2013|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Freewheelin'||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bryan G
Oct 8, 2014
Here is a really good (and quite humorous) account of the first accent by Roger.
I thought the hardest section to lead was getting to the second bolt on pitch 2 - a tricky 5.9 traverse (and probably harder than 5.9 if you're short). All the rest of the difficult climbing is very well protected. Major runouts are 5.7 or easier. I linked pitches 2 and 3 in order to skip the piton belay (one of which i could remove by hand), but this leads to rope drag on the bolted traverse at the end.
This is one of the best climbs of it's length and grade in Yosemite. Stoner's Highway is only better because it's longer.
Also the climb to the right of this (up the orange streaks) is Stupid Pet Tricks, not Cat Dancing which is 3 routes over.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 23, 2015
And here is some old-school beta from Largo on how to train for the legendary (and legendarily fearsome) MCR leads:
Per the second ascent of Freewheeling, I don't remember the first pitch having any pro whatsoever. It didn't seem all that horrendous for one reason: We'd spend hours traversing and climbing around at the base of Middle in order to get used to the rock. Many, many times we'd go crack climbing and on the drive back from the Cookie or Arch Rock or El Cap or wherever we'd stop by Middle and spend an hour or so traversing. After about fifty of these sessions you learned just how far you could go on the orange, white, grey and black holds, what your boots would stick to and not stick to, and you developed a certain style of cross presuring and mantling off finger tips and so forth--stuff that worked well on Middle and nowhere else.
This gave us the confidence to go for big runouts and keep the lid on because there was nothing you'd find out on the lead that you hadn't seen in one form or another during the traversing workouts. Sometimes you'd have like six guys, some 30 or even 40 feet off the ground, just meandering around and getting the whole thing dialed in. The reason for this was that there were sections of the harder routes like Space Babble and Black Primo where you couldn't afford to fall.
That's why stuff up to about 5.10b (probably 5.10c/d in the old EBs) had very sparce pro. They guys who put in the time traversing knew what they could do. I think what made this climbing so interesting is that it was far more mental than gymnastic--especially so on first ascents. It was much more a confidence game than a bouldering fest.
From this thread: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....