||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Kevin Worrell, George Meyers, Roger Breedlove, 1973|
|Season: ||Spring to Fall|
|Page Views: ||488|
|Submitted By: ||stuart.h on Sep 25, 2013|
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This is one of my favorite slab climbs in YNP right next to Quicksilver and joins up with it at its fifth belay station. We did both Quicksilver and Freewheelin' for a nice Gr V day.
This area is known for rock fall, wear a coconut protector.
Pitch 1 is 5.7 & 165ft. If it feels runout, this is a good time to bail as it only gets harder. Start in a right facing book and face climb up to a bolt. Arch left into a short crack that leads to bolt anchors.
P2 is couple of 5.9 moves both crack and face. From the first bolt above belay ascend a crack to the right. As crack ends, leave it heading left and up to a bolt, faceclimbing to an alcove
Pitches 3,4, & 5 are 10b face
P3 starts with a short traverse right from belay, then head up towards the "crystals band" passing through its left edge to a bolt. At the next bolt traverse left to a bolt (10b)then to a crack and belay.
P4 Leave the crack going up to the right into a small crack. Leave top of this small crack, bolt, followed by 10b, then to belay bolts.
P5 Move left to bolt, then up to horizontal crack. Go up towards a couple of bolts then downclimb left(10b) to the base of a left facing book. This short book is then followed by a 5.9 face to bolt anchors.
P6 is 5.7, no pro, and we rap from here rather than continuing.
Rappel the route.
Find Quicksilver then move right to find another right facing book. It is left of some orange streaks which marks a sport climb called Cat Dancing
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Oct 8, 2014
Here is a really good (and quite humorous) account by Roger of the first accent.
I thought the hardest section to lead was getting to the second bolt on pitch 2 - a tricky 5.9 traverse (and probably harder than 5.9 if you're short). All the rest of the difficult climbing is very well protected. Major runouts are 5.7 or easier. I linked pitches 2 and 3 in order to skip the piton belay (one of which i could remove by hand), but this leads to rope drag on the bolted traverse at the end.
This is one of the best climbs of it's length and grade in Yosemite. Stoner's Highway is only better because it's longer.
Also the climb to the right of this (up the orange streaks) is Stupid Pet Tricks, not Cat Dancing which is 3 routes over.