From: San Diego, CA
Sep 5, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
Lord! Runout is a bit of an understatement. The beginning crack is fun, but the following chute of doom, while fun in hindsight, was SO FREAK’N’ SCARY. I had one .5 in a decent crack to start the chute and then realized the only way up was to stem. Hard stemming, on nearly nothing for feet, and the nothing kept flaking off. The climb is quite dirty on the left side. So carefully I put my palms against the wall and started making my way up, 10, 15, 20 feet above my last piece. I’ve never climbed anything quite like this in J-Tree. From the ground it looks like you could just walk up the chute: I even made the mistake of saying “this climb looks a little lame.” I shall never insult a climb again.