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Freeloader 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Vince Bates, JBaker, Josie Becker, May 2008
Page Views: 1,798
Submitted By: jbak on Apr 27, 2010

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JB on Chain Gang.

Description 

From near the El Torito anchors you can see a line of letter-boxes, slopers and rails heading straight right out the 20+ foot ceiling to the center of the roof. When I realized it might go I was amazed. This extension was dubbed "Chain Gang" by EFR and that has stuck.

If you start on Dwarf Toss and finish on Chain Gang, you have done one long, hard line that is completely independent of El Torito and the other cave routes... Freeloader.

Vince came up with the name to underscore the fact that I did all the drilling, cleaning and reinforcement, but he bagged the FA. He's a funny man.

The route has about a dozen overhead heel-hooks and foot-cams, and is totally insane. The crux is at the end (as it should be) with a 10 foot V5 boulder problem along the rail to turn the lip of the cave.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Freeloader Slideshow Add Photo
Josie Becker checks out the "Chain Gang" chains using the El Torito start.
Josie Becker checks out the "Chain Gang"...
Starting the crux of Freeloader...and melting... photo by V Bates.
Starting the crux of Freeloader...and melting... p...
Vince Bates honing his "rest" on Freeloader a couple weeks prior to his FA.
Vince Bates honing his "rest" on Freeloa...
Vince gets tangled in the rope on Freeloader.
Vince gets tangled in the rope on Freeloader.

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By jbak
Apr 27, 2010

A somewhat easier way to do the amazing Chain Gang extension is to start on El Torito but don't quite go to the anchor. Instead, slide over to Chain Gang. It's still 5.13-, still 4 stars, and maybe more fun than Freeloader.