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Lost Angel
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Time Traveler T,TR 
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Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Freedom 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Horan and Mark Kalin, June 1997
Page Views: 1,412
Submitted By: Eric Peers on Oct 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Past the crux and about to turn the corner.

Description 

This is a reasonably nice 10a midway up Lost Angel wall. Start halfway up the trail as for Dyno Arete. Crux move is probably 10a, dihedral a 9-9+ish and the remainder pretty easy.

The climb starts by stepping over a few small bushes, pulling up on some easy stuff, and then stepping up onto a nice little point. Then you sidepull and make your first clip about 15 ft. above the ground to the left. Don't go too far right (the holds disappear). Now for the one move wonder crux move. Slap around left until you get reasonably solid (no good feet here). Move a little left, slap again and you'll get a good hold. Then move on up. Next clip is above and to the right. Proceed up the dihedral generally bearing right. If a clip looks to be far left, it is (that's Dyno Arete). All the clips for this are to the right. Work up the dihedral for about 3 clips and then make a beeline right. 4-5 more clips along a gradually ascending right-hand traverse. Tops out to two hangers above a 12. You can rap back down/lower here. It's hard to clean the route since it makes almost a 90-degree turn from the dihedral.

You can continue with Escape from Freedom (works up a large flake with a single bolt -- 5.5/5.6 easy climb) and then across a traverse with no pro (you can slap a #1 Camalot in above the traverse). Then work your way up to the slab after the traverse (nasty nasty when wet). A small Alien might fit in the crack here. I got one or two in. Then just walk up the ramp for very easy 5.5-5.6 trad climbing. Pro off to the left. Finish for this is above Zentropa I think. You can also make a left-hand turn up to another set of hangers (#2 protects this well) and then lead a nifty sport 5.10c up to your right. Or you can climb the gully to the left for super simple 5.0 style trad and top out.

Protection 

You'll need at least 10 quickdraws for Freedom

Escape from Freedom: Trad variation after Freedom. #3 Camalot for the ramp, small Aliens after the traverse, #1 Camalot before the traverse.


Photos of Freedom Slideshow Add Photo
Nick at the anchors?  This route was confusing, dog leg right?  Stupid climb
Nick at the anchors? This route was confusing, do...

Comments on Freedom Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2002

The crux moves seem more like 5.9 than 5.10a. Most people I climb with feel it's the easiest 10a in Boulder County.
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Apr 22, 2003

I agree, Freedom is likely the easiest 10 around Boulder, in addition to being one of the most blatantly bolted cracks in the area.
By Darin Thompson
Jun 16, 2003

Are you guys being a little harsh - if you're calling the top crack area 9ish, then the below move is tougher, don't you think?
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 11, 2004

does anyone know what the route name and grade is of the route that takes off directly above the anchors after the first pitch of freedom?(at the end of the ramp)
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Apr 23, 2006

Route is pretty forgettable. The first few moves up the dihedral are ok, but then it seems the route ends and the route setter just added bolts to the nearest easy anchor.
By Brenda Leach
Jul 5, 2006

There's a fun trad 5.9+/5.10a variation for the 2nd half of this climb. After the 3rd or 4th bolt, head straight up the thin crack to the anchor with webbing. There's a nice finger lock as you move to the left of the 4th bolt. It's a balancy stretch to get there. Bring a few small to medium cams. This variation eliminates the really easy traverse to the right and facilitates cleaning the route.