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The Hideout
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Freedom Fried 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 2003
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: slim on Feb 5, 2010

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Description 

Climb a short, vertical section and pull up onto a big ledge. Climb up the slightly left-facing dihedral with a flake/seam to the left, clipping bolts that are around a small corner to the right. Be careful through here as the climbing is a little goofy, there is a really nasty ledge below you, and the bolts are situated in awkward locations. Pull a small roof to easier climbing above and the anchors.

The climbing on this route is decent, but the bolt placements on the lower section detract from its quality. The main wall is a flake that becomes more detached as you move upward. It would be better if the bolts were on the left hand side of the miny arete, instead of on the right hand side. It would make them easier to clip, and prevent the quickraws from scraping on the arete.

Location 

The Hideout can be logically split into 2 halves. This route is the furthest route to the right on the right half of The Hideout. It is about 100 feet past the group of routes that make up the bulk of the right Hideout.

Protection 

This is a bolted route, but I added a PG-13 to the grade. If this is at your limit, you will want to be very careful and have an attentive belayer. The bolts are in awkward locations, and the quickdraws scrape around a small arete, which isn't optimal.


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By Mark Rolofson
Jan 28, 2013

Like most of the routes at the Hideout, this is my route established in March 2003. The reason the 2nd and 3rd bolts are right of where you climb is for good reasons. First, placing these bolts left of the tiny arete & corner would mean putting them in a hollow flake. Secondly, putting the bolts to the left would encourage climbers to stem to the dirty corner & ledge to the left rather than stay on the face & lieback up the flake. It is also possible to climb this section on the arete next to the bolts. The way I usually climb the line is to move straight up to a good jug & clip 2nd bolt & then reach left to the flake. Lieback up the flake and then reach back right to clip 3rd bolt. It is easy to clip & I have never noticed any problem with the draws scraping over the arete. Having these two bolts here also makes for a cleaner fall, as you swing away from the ledge below. As for calling it PG-13, I struggle to think it deserves a seriousness grade, but if 5.11 is at or above your limit, perhaps it could fuck with your head. It is not dangerous.