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Byrd's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Dust T 
B-Team Arete S 
Byrd's Classic T 
Freebase T 
No Justice for Rodney T,S 
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Freebase 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Johnny Duran, Tim Kuss, & Jim DiNapoli, 1984
Page Views: 1,021
Submitted By: eDixon on Jun 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Freebase runs right up the middle of this cool fea...

Description 

Per Ben Griffin:
I did this route last summer, spring, or fall. I really don't remember. You climb the choss gully to climbers left of Angel Dust, then head up to a giant bolt. It is hard to see the bolt from the ground, but it is up there. The next piece of pro is a beaten in copperhead that looks like it is from the dinosaur era. Climb over the overhang and traverse right which is run out for the leader and follower, to another dirty crack. Then, the leader climbs up the crack and does a sketchy traverse out left to the sick, overhanging, hands to fist crack. I thought I was going to be the first person to climb this route in years, but when I got to the crack it was perfectly clean. It is an incredible crack pitch at East Animas, with its exposure and sustained crack climbing. The crack is much cleaner than Slave's Crack, which receives a lot more traffic.

Per Dancesatmoonrise:
The FA was by Johnny Duran. He showed it to Jim DiNapoli in 1984 and gave DiNapoli the lead. After yo-yo'ing the overhanging crack out of sheer fright, DiNapoli flamed out turning the top, Duran finished the lead, DiNapoli finished on second.

In those days, Duran used to regularly do the Watch Crystal wearing nothing but gym shorts, a chalk bag, a Walkman, and a rack with one stopper. The stopper was to put in at the belay to bring his GF up.

Location 

This is on the left side of the Byrd's area.

Protection 

Standard East A rack.

Per Ben Griffin
This route can now be done in one pitch. There are now 3 bolts protecting the face of this rock climb and two bolts for a belay. The route still feels pretty adventuresome.


Comments on Freebase Add Comment
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By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Nov 5, 2010

I've looked for the start of this climb more than once. Anyone have any better beta? Is the 11d face unprotected? 'Cause I haven't found any bolts, but I could be retarded. The second pitch looks amazing. Thanks.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I did this route last summer, spring, or fall. I really don't remember. You climb the choss gully to climbers left of Angel Dust, then head up to a giant bolt. It is hard to see the bolt from the ground, but it is up there. The next piece of pro is a beaten in copperhead that looks like it is from the dinosaur era. Climb over the overhang and traverse right which is run out for the leader and follower, to another dirty crack. Then, the leader climbs up the crack and does a sketchy traverse out left to the sick, overhanging, hands to fist crack. I thought I was going to be the first person to climb this route in years, but when I got to the crack it was perfectly clean. It is an incredible crack pitch at East Animas, with its exposure and sustained crack climbing. The crack is much cleaner than Slave's Crack, which receives a lot more traffic. Skyler, I would be down to climb this route with ya.
By dancesatmoonrise
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

FA info is not currently filled in above, so a little history.

The FA was by Johnny Duran. He showed it to Jim DiNapoli in 1984 and gave DiNapoli the lead. After yo-yo'ing the overhanging crack out of sheer fright, DiNapoli flamed out turning the top, Duran finished the lead, DiNapoli finished on second.

In those days, Duran used to regularly do the Watch Crystal wearing nothing but gym shorts, a chalk bag, a Walkman, and a rack with one stopper. The stopper was to put in at the belay to bring his GF up.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This route can now be done in one pitch. There are now 3 bolts protecting the face of this rock climb and two bolts for a belay. The route still feels pretty adventuresome.

This route is freakin' hard. I definitely was able to send Barney's Crack faster than this fist roof crack. I also discovered the other day that this crack eats cams, so put runners on everything.
By dancesatmoonrise
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Anyone have more photos? God, I'd like to see a photo looking up from our belay out to the underside of that crack, or a shot of someone walking it with all fours in the crack. All I have is this mental image - from ...29 years ago. : (
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Mar 21, 2014

When John Duran and I did the FA, we started by surmounting the choss roof, just off the ground, with a hard move onto a clean, unprotected face. No need to go to the bolt, which is some other contrivance. Go instead through a bush on the right, then make a slab move to gain the bottom of the crack. We used to belay right there, but I'll bet you could do it from the ground. If it had a convenient lowering anchor, it might make it more popular, as it should be. Maybe some bolts on that low face too would make it more awesomer.
By Steve SMith
Apr 24, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Just did this today, great route albeit a little western with suspect rock. It's hard to imagine a cooler setting than hanging upside down on perfect hand jams. I started well left of the crack in a chimney right off the ground and climbed in a right diagonaling fashion following a line of nice bolts. My rack consisted of 7 QDs for the bolts (skipping the first), a black Alien between first 3rd & 4th bolt (a small nut would also work), #0.75, #1, #2, 2 x #3s, and 1 new #4 BD for the upper crack. I would have liked one more new #4. It helps to have a second clean on TR and then rap the chimney near Barney's Crack.

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