Free Window Route
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Ryan Sayers following pitch 1
This route starts up the West face directly under the window (the obvious hole in the rock). Climb up some good cracks (5.8) with a couple tricky moves and lots of jamming to the window. From here, jam out the overhang on good hands that quickly turn to tight bastard hands in the dihedral (5.10+). Follow this until you get to the bolt ladder protecting the chimney. You now must climb the weirdest thing in the world (5.10+ squeeze) - you will be horribly confused, but it's some of the best climbing in the desert. A couple unroped mantels on the summit (avoid the chipped edges on the first one for extra style points) lead to the top, and a gazillion new bolts (?). One of the best towers in the desert. Two double-rope raps get you down.
Bring a standard rack with a few extra #1 Camalots.
On the crazy 5.10 "Chimney." If you cheat, and I ...
Ben on the first pitch of the Free Window Route 12...
Matt on the splitter 2nd pitch
Echo Pinnacle- free window route starts on other s...
Looking through the "window" at the start of the s...
One of the most unique pitches ever. Chimney...not...
Echo Pinnacle is the tallest tower on the left.
upper part of pitch 3
taylor after a hard days work
viewed from the west. the route is obvious on the ...
taylor on the rap
t pullin on pitch one
|Comments on Free Window Route
|By St. Mary|
Mar 15, 2013
We are looking to climb this next week. Does anyone know the status of the rebolting mission? Information is greatly appreciated.
|By Brian Shelton|
Aug 28, 2003
I have never climbed anything as funky as the O/W section on the third pitch of this route. Half your body is on one side of the tower and half is on the other, it is an amazing position. Absolutely one of the best desert towers around.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 18, 2004
One of the best towers around? Whoa! Easy there! Whoa!
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 30, 2007
I noticed some strangeness on this climb when I did it.....which was with Lori Graff in the early 1980's. I believe to the left of the crack you climb on pitch one, there is a bolt ladder of studs with no hangers;...maybe the original way of the first ascent? We got our ropes stuck too....that was irritating. These towers in this beautiful canyon/valley are fantastic. Cool summit of a beautiful tower in a wonderful area......all good stuff.
|By Greg D|
Oct 8, 2008
Great route. I highly recommend this route for the adventurous folk. Somewhat remote, very scenic, not well traveled, varied climbing with one of the most unique pitches I have ever climbed... "well" protected with mostly manky old bolts and pins. Rap 1 = 130 feet, rap 2 = 90 feet.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Dec 24, 2008
Are some of you guys doing this in three pitches? It seems like you are belaying right below the "chimney" and the descriptions seems to counter this.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Dec 29, 2008
criscokid, we did the route in 3 pitches.
|By Greg D|
Jan 29, 2009
It may be possible to combine the 2nd and 3rd pitches but the 3rd pitch goes up, traverses right, then straight up again. Maybe 150 feet total. Rope drag may be an issue. We did it in 3.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 6, 2009
We did this route primarily as an aid climb (I have a recently broken foot and shouldn't really stick it in cracks yet), and here's how the climb rolled...
P1 - 30m. Dirty, physical 5.8++ climbing. Gear is surprisingly good, but lots of flaking foot holds and a few death blocks keep it interesting. Anchor was a big slung block, plus any hand size cams you want.
P2 - 25m. Fabulous corner... I wish I could have free climbed it, but not on this trip. It was grunty C1 for me. There did appear to be nice rests on the upper half. Hanging belay on one OK bolt and good drilled angle.
P3 - 20m. Pretty wild position. Even at C0, some free climbing is required to get to the first bolt and do a stretch where a bolt is missing. The bolts do not inspire confidence - bring some screamers. You can lob a big cam through the crack onto the other side of the formation to protect getting to the first bolt. Pretty cool!
On top, choose any combination of the various bolts available... there are all flavors.
Descent: A rap anchor of 3 good drilled angles is available. One double rope rap to the big ledge, and then another rap (30m) to the ground. If needed you can easily get to the lower rap anchor from the top of P1 by walking along the big ledge.
Gear: Some medium to big nuts, One set TCUs, 2x#0.5 and 2x#0.75 camalots, a good helping of #1 and #2 camalots (most people will want at least three I suspect - four was nice for aiding), two or three #3 camalots, one #3.5 camalot.
From: longmont, co
Nov 9, 2009
I just did this route- super fun adventure for sure. We did it in 2 pitches no problem. The hanging belay after the hand crack sucks so we just did it in 2. No problem at all. Bring a lot of runners but cool chimney thingee and good fun all around.
From: moab, ut
Jan 15, 2010
did this route in'09 some of the bolts have been chopped on the bolt ladder making this climb even more full value if it wasn't already. also did it in three pitches rather than two. took a little more time but i was thankful when i got to the mantels and didnt have rope drag.
|By Paul Irby|
From: moab, ut
May 8, 2010
|By jason malczyk|
From: General Delivery
Oct 9, 2010
Climbed this route on Oct 9, 2010. While seconding we had a piton pull on the third pitch. It was about the 6 or 7th clip. This will make it hard for aiding. This route is in need of some rebolting. All the bolt hangers are spinning and and the rock around them is eroding.
|By matt j hartman|
From: lander, wy
Nov 23, 2011
There are 2 drilled angles thru the window that are good. It seems like a free variation has been played with on the other side of the window (left, or whatever). It might be less awkward to climb on that side of the tower, better stems. You can clip the lower of the angles from just below the lower crux. The higher might be hard to reach from the thrutch straight up. Bolts up high looked good. Always something when you need it. This is a good, hard tower for the grade.
Apr 10, 2012
Beta here is solid. We did pitch 2 and pitch 3 as one - not much of a ledge if you break this up as two pitches, although the weight of two ropes at the top of this long pitch was certainly evident. An incredible pitch - quite strenuous, opening moves, finishing moves, pretty much the whole pitch is in your face. A few rests after you punch through the hands to tight hands start. If you love this pitch - somewhat reminiscent of Long Dong Wall (Colorado National Monument) and Honeymoon Chimney.
Agree with the comment about pitch one being 5.8++. I dumped most of the suggested rack into this pitch - a lot of the rock does not inspire confidence. An enjoyable pitch certainly, just a bit funky. Not sure I would recommend this pitch for the 5.8 leader.
The route is west facing - not much if any protection from the sun due to the chimney feature - if the day is toasty - would be good to get on this one early.
|By Joel Hickok|
Aug 14, 2012
Even though the rock is not the best, this climb gets 4 stars by me because of the line it takes and the extraordinary climbing.
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.11- PG13
first pitch is better than it looks. taylor lead this one so i'll let him beta that. second pitch, lots of gold, red, green, purple camalots. two old bolts on this pitch. belay at two old pins. back up in sandy flared crack that runs from about 3and 1/2 camalot down to about a purple camalot. third pitch, old, OLD!! bolts and pins. i placed one #3and1/2 camalot and one #3 camalot on that pitch. stick clip or risk falling on bad old pro. i also used three rivet hangers on that pitch. placed the small grey camalot on pitch one and two. placed no stoppers except to back up belay at top of pitch two. placed two hexes, one on pitch one and one to back up belay at top of pitch two. so i say leave the stoppers and hexes on the deck and use a couple cams to back up the belay. one double 70 rap got us to the ground. 5.9 A? for us. good, sic climb. one of the better ones i have ever done. i would like to see this route get the holes from pins that have pulled filled with bomber new bolts but leave the old pins that remain for thrill factor and historical preservation.
Sep 28, 2012
I have only been climbing for a few months now and I lead the first pitch. I would say it is 5.9. It eats up the pro I took a standard desert rack plus some extra red gold and blue camolots. totaly rad climb tuff but totaly worth it. Thanks to Paul I made it to the top.
|By Alexander Nees|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Oct 17, 2012
Wow! This route is the whole desert tower experience rolled up in 3 pitches. Splitter, chossy, sublime, and funky all at once. Pitch 1 is some prime desert choss, with flaky rock but good pro and fun jams. Pitch 2 is an awesome beautiful splitter with a couple good rest stances. Pitch 3 is incredibly exposed, with wide funky climbing, sketchy pro, and incredible geometry. I would highly recommend this to strong visiting climbers who only have time for one tower and want the full spectrum of experience with great scenery and no crowds.
I freed almost all of the bolt ladder, but I stick-clipped past the two missing bolts before freeing those sections, not being willing to risk whipping on the very old pro. Personally I would like to see this bolt ladder upgraded with safe bolts and the missing bolts replaced. This would make it a much more sane proposition to free on lead, and it's an incredible pitch at 5.10+. I don't think old bolts, random ring pitons, and empty holes add much to the experience. If anyone wants to do this job, let me know and I'd be happy to help provide support, materials, and/or beer.
Until/unless a re-bolting happens, bring a stickclip for aiding the 3rd pitch, or bring a bold leader willing to run it out above old bolts on weird sandy climbing.
Perfect rack for me would be a handful of medium nuts, doubles from .5 to #3 C4, triple #2s, and a single #4 C4.
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 26, 2012
I'm in on the re-bolting mission. When I climbed this a few years back, I remember thinking it would be one of the best in the desert, if it weren't for the mank on that last pitch. Although I freed it on TR, my partner used some french free skills to lessen the risk factor on the old gear. Anyone interested...pm. I've got drill and hangers...need some bolts though.