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Lost Cause Boulder
Select Route:
Bloody Flapper 
Bore, The 
Dean's Journey 
Free willy 
Gloria 
Lip Sync 

Free willy 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Brototype on Jan 20, 2014

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Some areas require a guide.

Description 

Note: My understanding is that the holds to the left (on the Pussy Route) are off limits for Free Willy.

Start with a good right hand in the low pockets and a left sloping crimp. You can start with a right heel hook by your right hand and a left back step (traditional beta), or just toe down on some bad feet. Go left hand to the sloper, right hand to the tooth and continue up and eventually right on pretty decent crimps. The finish can be done one of two ways: go left hand to the bad crimp, hike a high right foot and dyno to the lip with your right hand, or you can use the bad 1/4" sloping crimp with your right as an intermediate before going to the lip. Not really sure which one is easier, but I felt the intermediate was more consistent.

Location 

If looking at bloody flapper drop through a crawl space to the right by where the gloria boulder meets the start of lip sync. You can also come at it from the north side by the dam buster problem.

Protection 

A few pads and a spotter.


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