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Leda
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Unsorted Routes:

Free to Think 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,557
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 16, 2007
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Johanna climbing Free to Think, Leda, January 2008...

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Description 

One of the relatively few trad lines at Leda, Free to Think is short but fun and well-protected.

Starting at an obvious corner below a ledge, boulder past a chockstone through an overhang to the ledge. Move left and follow the crack in the corner using good jams and stemming. The route ends at ring anchors on a shallow ledge, which is the starting point for a harder sport climb (Temple of Doom).


Location 

Starts about 15' left of Speedway Boogie.


Protection 

Medium gear, up to maybe 3". Bolted anchors.



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By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

fun route but be careful, this crack is polished.

By James Ruch
Jan 28, 2011

The ring anchors are suspect.

By marc girardot
Nov 7, 2011

Can be topped easily by walking over on ledge from Fanfair, Speedway Boogie or Cracked Actor.

Anchors looked good on 11-6-2011. Used to top rope it.

By ChillFancy
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jun 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Easy climb with a strange start. The climb is made easier by the plentiful features on the right face; I've seen the route done crack only though. Takes gear all the way up, would be a great first lead.

By highneed
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Bizarre route. Awkward bouldery start (12'), decent 5.6 corner(20'), easy roof (4'),4th class exit (20'). Still a good route for new leaders.

By Jeremy Hand
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Keep your head straight for the start and then figure out the perfect combination of crack and face climbing to the juggy roof.

By Rachael429
From: Chattanooga, TN
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This was my first trad climb. The beginning is kinda weird. I went left and mounted up to the beginning of the crack. Easy climb overall.

By Mike Lambino
From: Jasper, Ga
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

The start to the route is the hardest part, which isn't bad at all. For 5.8 this crack is so good it came out the dealers mouth dry! Great lead, wish it was longer.