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The Coop
Select Route:
Chicken Cordon Bulge T 
Coop du jour S 
Free Range T 
Going Out Of Chicken Sale T 
Last Chicken, The T 
Touching the Coop T 

Free Range 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Geir and Marcy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 26, 2010

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Photo taken from the bottom of the route

Description 

Free Range follows the thin crack system directly under a huge wedged block on the west side of the Coop.

Belay at the base of the formation to the right of the climb. Start by scrambling up 20 feet up 4th class terrain to the base of the route. Clip two bolts to gain the intermittent crack system. Follow this feature placing tricky but solid gear and clipping two more bolts. The anchor is just below the wedged block.

Location 

West side of the coop. The climb can be approached two ways:

1) From the east face (where the majority of the climbs on the Coop are located) scramble downhill and to climber's left. You will see a slot between the Coop and its neighboring feature. Enter it, the climb will be in the middle of the face to your right.

or
2) When approaching the Coop from the main trail, take the branch that heads downhill before you reach the Coop. The Trail leads downhill approx 100' and turns to the left. Walk around the formation on this trail, then turn back uphill. You will reach the slot between the Coop and its neighboring feature. Enter it, the climb will be in the center of the face to your right.

Protection 

Stoppers, singles to 3". A #3 Tricam is useful for one placement. Make sure you have some small cams (down to black Alien size).


Photos of Free Range Slideshow Add Photo
Geir on Free Range
Geir on Free Range
free range chickens
free range chickens

Comments on Free Range Add Comment
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By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Dec 12, 2010

Mega-congrats to Geir on developing and sending Free Range!!! A stellar effort to develop the hardest (to date) mixed route in LDE (You are awesome!).
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 7, 2013

Didn't get on it yesterday, Geir, sorry! Was hoping to, but by the time I got in there I was well worked and Hanna didn't really feel like dealing with me projecting this!! Can't wait to give it a whirl, though, and the views from "Touching the Coop" are stellar.