2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The stand start is called Cage Free, V11. On the left-center of the Citadel Boulder's south face is a good sidepull. Use this to reach left to a bad sidepull and jump to the top with the right hand.
The sit start is called Free Range, V13. The sit start goes with a left hand on a pretty good pinch and a right on a variety of low holds. The low left spike is on for your feet. Bump right to an edge, cross to a pinch and traverse into Cage Free.
The Citadel Boulder is the obvious boulder just downstream from Castle Rock on the north side of the creek.
Tried this one today as well as "Surface Tension." and got killed. The start was ok, but turning my body into "Cage Free" with zippo feet, while keeping your composure and busting out that huge toss was just madding.
A really cool problem. I think waiting for cooler temps and getting a stronger everything on my body before taking the completion of this seriously is going to be my deal. The tension is crazy!!! I felt stronger on "Midnight Express." Anyway, sick hook up to "Cage Free."
Can't wait to see the reverse send from "Surface Tension" into "Cage Free" go!!! That's gonna be nuts!! All good lines on this wall!! Wait for good temps and low water to play here man... for-sure..