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Castle Rock
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West Face, Direct Start 

Free Range 

Hueco: V13 Font: 8B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V13 Font: 8B [details]
FA: Brian Capps for the stand. Chris Schulte sit start
Page Views: 1,921
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Dec 14, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the south face of the Citadel Boulder. C...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The stand start is called Cage Free, V11. On the left-center of the Citadel Boulder's south face is a good sidepull. Use this to reach left to a bad sidepull and jump to the top with the right hand.

The sit start is called Free Range, V13. The sit start goes with a left hand on a pretty good pinch and a right on a variety of low holds. The low left spike is on for your feet. Bump right to an edge, cross to a pinch and traverse into Cage Free.


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Location 

The Citadel Boulder is the obvious boulder just downstream from Castle Rock on the north side of the creek.


Protection 

A few pads are in order.



Photos of Free Range Slideshow Add Photo
More photo beta for "Free Range (V13)."
BETA PHOTO: More photo beta for "Free Range (V13)."
BH on Castle Rock Cube.
BH on Castle Rock Cube.
Comments on Free Range Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris schulte
Apr 25, 2009

The start for free range is from a sloping left hand pinch, not the arete....

By Luke Childers
Sep 3, 2009
rating: V13 8B

Tried this one today as well as "Surface Tension." and got killed. The start was ok, but turning my body into "Cage Free" with zippo feet, while keeping your composure and busting out that huge toss was just madding.

A really cool problem. I think waiting for cooler temps and getting a stronger everything on my body before taking the completion of this seriously is going to be my deal. The tension is crazy!!! I felt stronger on "Midnight Express." Anyway, sick hook up to "Cage Free."

Can't wait to see the reverse send from "Surface Tension" into "Cage Free" go!!! That's gonna be nuts!! All good lines on this wall!! Wait for good temps and low water to play here man... for-sure..

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 11, 2011

I finally fixed the Free Range description, per Chris' comments. Sorry I haven't been climbing here much recently :)