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Shady Lane
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Chronic Relief 
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Free Range Chook 

Free Range Chook 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 443
Submitted By: sqwirll on May 13, 2009
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Getting ready for the crux.

Description 

I'd give this route 4 stars if were just a little longer. This route starts out pulling a steep section on jugs. Then the crack goes from hands to fingers, with a thin crux at the top.

We cleaned this route in January and it has held up well so far. It dries fairly quickly after rain.


Location 

Go to the far left (West)end of Shady Lane and locate the obvious crack. Walk off the left side of the cliff.


Protection 

Gear to 3", with mainly finger sized pro.. One fixed pin protects the crux move. Belay off trees at the top.



Photos of Free Range Chook Slideshow Add Photo
Clipping the fixed pin.
Clipping the fixed pin.
The route
The route
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By TM Miller
May 19, 2009

Excellent route. It protects very well. Great route for those wanting to break into 5.10 climbing and it can also be easily toproped.

By Mark Straub
From: Everett, WA
Oct 23, 2010

Good route, but hard crux right at the top! I was expecting a 5.10b tips lock, and instead there was nothing but a flaring pocket. All the other moves are cruiser, and it protects great.

By Laurel Fan
Jun 13, 2011

Still clean! We climbed this because we thought it was the first pitch of Davis-Holland (I know...). I was expecting 5.9! Oops!