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Free Range Chicken 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 9/99
Page Views: 872
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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ME, aka TR weenie.

Description 

A cool short crack climb directly under the big fin on Jolt (5.10b)... If it was longer it could be classic but it just ends and you are left wishing for a little more...

Start to the right of Jolt and find the steep crack that eases up as you go... This leads a set of anchors...

If you are the type to seek out trad climbs at rumney (like my self) climb it for sure but dont bother going too far out of your way for it...


Location 

Between Jolt and Dolt...


Protection 

Regular rack to anchors...



Photos of Free Range Chicken Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Free Range Chicken, below the Jolt arete.
Climbing Free Range Chicken, below the Jolt arete.
Comments on Free Range Chicken Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 14, 2009

this route or something near it has been retro-bolted

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2009

You sure about this, Lee? I know Chris put up a new bolted 10 between Dolt and Nicky's Crack, but that was a year or so ago. I don't think anyone would retro this climb as it is easily lead on gear and TRed

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2009

Thanks mark but this one looks like its between Jolt and Dolt... It is a little right of where i have climbed on Free Range but it ends on a 2 ring bolt anchor below the big fin on Jolt... I figured i might have just been climbing the wrong line on Free Range (maybe thats why it felt hard for a 5.7)... anyway, just trying to figure it all out, ill have to look again and climb the new lines...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2009

Looking up from under jolt...
Looking up from under jolt...

So im pretty sure the bolts i saw followed the line in the middle here... if im wrong ill eat my words...

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Oct 7, 2010

When I climbed the Free Range Chicken I put gear in the corner crack of Jolt, down climbed and went up the face above the bolted station at probably (5.8). It's a fun variation.

By Ron Birk
May 14, 2013

We climbed this route last Sunday and there were no bolts. There are two variations on the start, a crack to the right and a crack to the left (the latter much harder).