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South Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Here Now T 
Center Thumb T 
Da Black and Gold T 
Expanding Man T 
Free Mexican Air Force T 
Gardner's Delight , The T 
Gold Wall T 
Great Escape, The T 
Heart of Gold T 
Inner Vision T 
Left Thumb T 
P-38 T 
Right Thumb T 
Taivallista T 

Free Mexican Air Force 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham, 1994 Possible FFA: Jonathan Knight and Noah Bigwood, 2006
Page Views: 1,084
Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF. great chicken he...

Description 

Another great route that could use some traffic. It's bit heady due to the machine bolts protecting the crux first pitch. I have no idea how bomber they are. We traversed right to start the second pitch to gain a crack system. I think the original route may have stayed on the arete for this pitch, but it looks like the dirtier and more difficult option. Just another excuse to do it again, I guess. The first pitch is pretty clean as are the second and third with the exception of some veg in the cracks. Typically, the top of last pitch is a little rotten, but not very scary.

Location 

Exceptional position on the NW arete of the S. Summit wall with a super nice ledge on top of the second pitch. All four pitches were well over 100'.

Protection 

Mixed gear and 6 machine bolts on the first pitch. Bring some extra wires to sling these little terrors along with a standard rack. 3 bolt (5/16ths) anchors a top the first and second pitches. 2 bolt anchor for the third with a couple of fixed bashies along the way.


Photos of Free Mexican Air Force Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch 3
Looking up pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Viva la Revolucion!
BETA PHOTO: Viva la Revolucion!

Comments on Free Mexican Air Force Add Comment
Show which comments
By mountainsense
Aug 11, 2010

YAAARR! Thanks for the post, Jonathan!
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

We also moved out right after about three 'bolts' and traversed back left into the anchor for P1. traversing R definitely looked easier than staying on the grittier rock on the arete proper. The machine bolts looked ok, and there's gear to be had between them to make it a manageable affair.

Really glad we got on it. the placements are cleaner now! 11b,10,10,8.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 13, 2016

Excellent route! The machine bolts appear to be roughly 3/8's studs so if they're deep they should be good, but the number of threads that are in the rock is the unknown. Could be a bunch or they could be in 2 threads! Bring an extra set of peenuts. Overall this climb appears to ascend the largest continuous wall in the cirque. Pretty cool stuff.
By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 29, 2016

We found plenty of other pro than just the machine bolts. They actually looked in better condition than most of the rusted protection bolts in the cirque. I was kept away from this climb for a while because I was unsure what the pro was like. I found it to be safer than many other routes on the cirque. Get on it!

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