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South Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Here Now T 
Center Thumb T 
Da Black and Gold T 
Expanding Man T 
Free Mexican Air Force T 
Gold Wall T 
Great Escape, The T 
Heart of Gold T 
Inner Vision T 
Left Thumb T 
P-38 T 
Right Thumb T 
Taivallista T 

Free Mexican Air Force 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham, 1994 Possible FFA: Jonathan Knight and Noah Bigwood, 2006
Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Viva la Revolucion!


Another great route that could use some traffic. It's bit heady due to the machine bolts protecting the crux first pitch. I have no idea how bomber they are. We traversed right to start the second pitch to gain a crack system. I think the original route may have stayed on the arete for this pitch, but it looks like the dirtier and more difficult option. Just another excuse to do it again, I guess. The first pitch is pretty clean as are the second and third with the exception of some veg in the cracks. Typically, the top of last pitch is a little rotten, but not very scary.


Exceptional position on the NW arete of the S. Summit wall with a super nice ledge on top of the second pitch. All four pitches were well over 100'.


Mixed gear and 6 machine bolts on the first pitch. Bring some extra wires to sling these little terrors along with a standard rack. 3 bolt (5/16ths) anchors a top the first and second pitches. 2 bolt anchor for the third with a couple of fixed bashies along the way.

Photos of Free Mexican Air Force Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF.  great chicken he...
looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF. great chicken he...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch 3
Looking up pitch 3

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By mountainsense
Aug 11, 2010

YAAARR! Thanks for the post, Jonathan!
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

We also moved out right after about three 'bolts' and traversed back left into the anchor for P1. traversing R definitely looked easier than staying on the grittier rock on the arete proper. The machine bolts looked ok, and there's gear to be had between them to make it a manageable affair.

Really glad we got on it. the placements are cleaner now! 11b,10,10,8.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 13, 2016

Excellent route! The machine bolts appear to be roughly 3/8's studs so if they're deep they should be good, but the number of threads that are in the rock is the unknown. Could be a bunch or they could be in 2 threads! Bring an extra set of peenuts. Overall this climb appears to ascend the largest continuous wall in the cirque. Pretty cool stuff.

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