From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]: Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A testpiece of Beacon climbing. Free for Some starts in the thin crack to the right of the Windsurfer corner. Hard moves off the ground with the crux coming down low has led to more than one injured climber. Climb up the gradually widening crack to an intermediate anchor or continue up to a ledge and bolted anchors with chains.
Located to the right of Windsurfer this obviously nice crack has a characteristic zig-zag feature 20ft off the deck. A two rope rappel can get you all the way down or use intermediate anchors and two single rope raps.
Standard rack including small wires (offset aliens useful). The are sometimes a few fixed pins on the route.
In the early 1980s there was a solid fixed pin at the crux which made the lead somewhat easier. Then someone removed the pin claiming that RPs can be used. This is true, but putting a QD on a pin uses much less energy than fiddling with RPs!