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Beacon Rock
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Free for All 
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Free for Some 
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Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack 
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Free for Some 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 1,539
Submitted By: Karsten on Nov 15, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: A Basalt Beauty

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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A testpiece of Beacon climbing. Free for Some starts in the thin crack to the right of the Windsurfer corner. Hard moves off the ground with the crux coming down low has led to more than one injured climber. Climb up the gradually widening crack to an intermediate anchor or continue up to a ledge and bolted anchors with chains.


Location 

Located to the right of Windsurfer this obviously nice crack has a characteristic zig-zag feature 20ft off the deck. A two rope rappel can get you all the way down or use intermediate anchors and two single rope raps.


Protection 

Standard rack including small wires (offset aliens useful). The are sometimes a few fixed pins on the route.



Photos of Free for Some Slideshow Add Photo
Free for Some is the climb to the right of the rappeller.  White slings of the first anchor on FfS can be seen parallel with the rapplling climber.
BETA PHOTO: Free for Some is the climb to the right of the rap...
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By slim
Administrator
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13

kind of finnicky gear at the crux, with a blade flake sticking up out of the ground to land on. take your time and make sure you have good gear. great route.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Dec 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The crux of this route feels very stout for those of us with fat fingers. I couldn't get anything out of the chalked seam. Great route though!

By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Aug 5, 2012

Fingertips only for me... super aesthetic line, have to come back for the send!

By the professor
Sep 21, 2013

In the early 1980s there was a solid fixed pin at the crux which made the lead somewhat easier. Then someone removed the pin claiming that RPs can be used. This is true, but putting a QD on a pin uses much less energy than fiddling with RPs!

By Steve Wolford
Nov 30, 2013

One 70 meter rope will get you off if you swing left at the base to higher ground, instead of having to use 2 ropes.