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P-Wall
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Free For All 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ryan Bello, 1992
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Ryan Nevius on Jul 16, 2012  with updates from John Knight and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Closing out the day in style. Hard to beat the vie...

Description 

Climb past the undercling a couple of moves off the ground to a series of pockets and crimps. Reach high and left for the arete and pull onto it (the crux). Follow the technical grooves to the set of chains at the top of the route.

Location 

On the far right side of P-Wall, just to the left of Pump Floyd and to the right of La Leche.

Protection 

8 bolts (bolts 1 - 4 replaced March 2015) plus optional gear for flared crack. The route is well-protected.


Photos of Free For All Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan.
Ryan.
11a/b lower section. Step up high, clip Bolt 1 and...
11a/b lower section. Step up high, clip Bolt 1 and...
Bolt replacement work (3/2015)
Bolt replacement work (3/2015)
Aaron F. getting it done.
Aaron F. getting it done.
looking good.
looking good.
Ryan making it look easy. I thought it looked like...
Ryan making it look easy. I thought it looked like...
Revised topo of far right side (aka Dark Side) of ...
BETA PHOTO: Revised topo of far right side (aka Dark Side) of ...

Comments on Free For All Add Comment
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By Internet Hardman
From: EARTH
Jul 20, 2012

Video or it didnt happen. : D
By ryan bello
Dec 1, 2013

The beginning of the route was an old aid ladder that stopped at the top of the fist face. The route went unknown from there. I climbed it only using the pockets straight up. The route then goes right towards the roof. You go out over the roof(crux) and way up to the top of the wall/ anchors. It was all about the pockets and roof.
By John Knight
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

In March of 2015, a group of local climbers finally replaced the lower lead bolts for Free for All. We were able to locate all of the old bolts that were previously removed (with the intent of replacing them) a few years ago. Personal note - it was about the same time I had back surgery and I was unable to get assistance from "real climbers" to help put them back in.

In any case, with one exception, all the bolts were placed within a few inches of their original location. Now for the Exception - after much debate, we decided to remove one of the lower bolts (and not replace it). It was too close to another bolt (about 18") and really not necessary for safety. May have even created a "zip clip" potential! The lower crux section now "sports" 4 new Fixe Triplex bolts. These can hold at least one Mack Truck. At bolt 6, the route joins Pump Floyd from some slightly runout (5.10a/b) climbing. The upper portion seemed to require more focus and mental gymnastics than the lower "sporty" section. Unless you do the original route over the Motor Mouth overhang, you will only need 8 draws, instead of 10.

After several "pinkpoints" of the "new" route, everyone seemed to agree that it was a great lead and a nice addition to the "heady" lead routes on the right side of P-Wall.

Update - After reviewing Ryan Bello's info./notes and some old guidebooks, and seeing some recent pinkpoints, it appears that the lower section is somewhere around 5.11a/b and the roof is the crux at 5.11c (per Ryan Bello). Aaron F. and I will go replace those bolts and hopefully Aaron can send it and we can confirm the grade for the whole enchilada. Everyone I know just stops at the Pump Floyd chains and skips the 11c roof. If you know someone that can grade the roof, let me know and I will adjust the topo.

Happy Climbing!
By John Knight
Apr 3, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Video of Ben climbing the Free for All route. I think the lower section has various options based on whether you are left, right or straight on top of the bolt line.

youtu.be/z2zO3qVr7Cs
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Apr 4, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Some additional details worthy of note:

Ryan Guant showed up and onsighted the route up to the Pump Floyd anchor just a few minutes after the bolts were replaced. Nice send! True onsight since he hadn't even seen anyone climbing it.

The opportunity was well used and much education was garnered. We all learned a bit about anchor placement. A big thanks to Rudi for patiently belaying even though he's unable to climb because of injury. Another big thanks to Ben for his stoke to get out and give back in a positive way. Also, much thanks to John for both starting and finishing this project of restoring a high quality route.

The 304 SS Fixe hangers are compliments of the ASCA via John Knight. Fixe Triplex bolts compliments of John. The bolts cost $7.50/bolt, hangers are $3/hanger, plus shipping costs. Please donate to the ASCA. Those are arguably the best mechanical anchors around, made specifically for climbing, and are designed to be removable, so they are sustainable. Hopefully those same holes can be used again when the time comes to replace them again, which may not be required in my lifetime.

IMO the lower crux section feels about the same difficulty as 'Only Way To Fly.' The plan is to replace the remaining rusted bolts (bolts 5 and 6) since in addition to looking quite rusted, they are also probably mixed metals and undergoing accelerated rusting due to galvanic corrosion (the bolts look bad, probably carbon steel, with stainless hangers that look fine). I think I recall them looking like Rawl or Powers 5 piece anchors to me so it's possible we could use the same holes with a reasonable amount of effort in removal. After that, I'd like to replace the hardware that takes the original line over the roof. Still need to go out and make it look pretty since some of the old chopped bolt holes have not been patched and there are some chalk marks. Fun climb and I highly recommend it.
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