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Free For All (Variation) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA - Unknown. FFA - Ryan Bellow & Dave Bevan, 1992
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Ryan Nevius on Jul 16, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Free For All (Variation) finishes at the Pump Floy...


Climb past the undercling a couple of moves off the ground to a series of pockets and crimps. Reach high and left for the arete and pull onto it (the crux). Follow the technical grooves to the set of chains at the top of the route.


On the far right side of P-Wall, just to the left of Pump Floyd and to the right of La Leche. Look for the obvious aid line.


9 bolts...a mixture of newer and older. The route is well-protected.

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By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Jul 20, 2012

Video or it didnt happen. : D

By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 19, 2013

Yeah, I was gettin mixed up today. There are no longer bolts on the bottom (for the love of gawd do not get worked up over this). You pass a single one before joining the pump floyd line. Crux for me was a crank of a pretty shallow, right, two fingie pocket. The sidepull/undercling rail is sweet. Cool little route that should just be TRed from pump floyd now

By John Knight
Feb 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Bolt replacement for this route is still on my "To Do List". Looking for volunteers to help put these bolts back in. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

By ryan bello
Dec 1, 2013

The beginning of the route was an old aid ladder that stopped at the top of the fist face. The route went unknown from there. I climbed it only using the pockets straight up. The route then goes right towards the roof. You go out over the roof(crux) and way up to the top of the wall/ anchors. It was all about the pockets and roof.

By ryan bello
Dec 1, 2013

Oh...beware of bolt hacking...the same person has been doing it even when I was there. He was notorious for it and most climbers I knew (older and younger) did not hold this man in high regard. It appears he is still there... oh well..climb on.